Conversion kit for making a flyable Revell 1:32 Westland Lynx kit.

cults3d

NEWS: New main blade uploaded. It's tapered with a thinner tip, and it flies really well. OLD NEWS: I made new parts for the main frame bottom piece and the swash anti-rotation bracket, allowing for adjustment of the swash phase in 10° steps. Disclaimer: This project involves potential dangers. Wear protective goggles to avoid injury if anything breaks. I haven't experienced any failures myself, but different material manufacturers and printers can produce varying results. Proceed with caution. Print the following from PLA: * Mainframe01.stl - Parts for the main frame of the Revell 1:32 Sea Lynx (or PETG for motor heat resistance) * Micromaintotor02.STL - Main rotor pitch link rotation guide * Tailrotor02.STL - Tail rotor and pitch change beam * Swashlinks02.STL - Rod ends for the Blade CP swash plate ball ends * Spacer.STL - Spacers for the main shaft * Mainblade03.stl - Thicker main blade model, stiffer but more drag. Flies about the same as thinner blades. * Mainblade05-tapered.STL - Tapered blade, flies well. Recommended. Print the following from Taulman 910: * Micromaintotor01.STL - Main rotor hub * Scissor02.STL - Scissor links with flex hinges for the main landing gear Parts list: * Assorted M2 screws and M3 set screws * 2x ball bearings, 3x6x2.5mm * 3mm steel rod for main shaft * 3x servos: Turnigy TGY-D56LV (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigytm-tgy-d56lv-coreless-low-voltage-ds-mg-servo-0-89kg-0-10sec-5-6g.html) * Main gear: 128-136 tooth Active Hobby 84 Pitch CNC Composite Spur Gear (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/active-hobby-132t-84-pitch-cnc-composite-spur-gear.html) * Pinion: GWS 0.3 mod 10t brass pinion (or similar 0.3 mod/84 pitch) * Main motor: EH200 Brushless Outrunner 4100kv, or similar 3000-4000 kv motor (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/eh200-brushless-outrunner-4100kv.html) * Tail motor: NTM Prop Drive 13-12 2400KV, or similar 2400-2600kv motor (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/ntm-prop-drive-13-12-2400kv-40w.html) I used an E-FLITE EFLH1152 Blade CP Swashplate. It required modification by bending the outer ends inwards gently under heat to fit inside the top of the fuselage. The illustration shows how the parts of the main frame and servos go together. Use 1.6mm steel wire to make the anti-rotation bracket. I recommend installing it in the pictured holes, which will put the rotor in the right phase for near vertical pitch links. Assemble it to your liking using maker skills. This is a project for advanced builders who understand how helicopters work and go together. The main frame is assembled with #0x1/4 screws. Servos as well. Make the main shaft from steel and drill holes for a 1mm main gear locking pin, and a flat on the top for the main rotor set screws. I made the point of the rotor set screw into a pin that goes through a hole in the shaft for extra security. After the main blades have been printed, bend the tips down about 20° to resemble the BERP tips of the full-size helicopter. After the tail rotor has been printed, gently twist the blades at the root to give the appropriate pitch, about 10-20° should be enough. I have made many tail rotors, and this works every time. They only fail if they hit something. This video shows how the flight controls should operate: https://youtu.be/VuhCTazcsxA My Lynx now flies great at around 3200 RPM.