Component Tester Case

thingiverse

This case is a must-have for electronics enthusiasts, and can be found on eBay or other sources at an affordable price. With the touch of a button, it identifies and measures capacitance, inductance, resistance, ESR, batteries, diodes (including LEDs), transistors, thyristors, triacs, SCRs, etc. If you're an electronics hobbyist without one yet, I strongly recommend getting one - even if you don't print this case. There are many variants available, so make sure to get the right one! This case is designed for a 12864 LCD-based tester with a single button, compatible with both SMT and through-hole components, and powered by a PP3 9v battery. Check the photos to ensure you get the correct model. The small dish in the bottom right corner serves as a convenient storage space for components while testing, preventing SMTs from getting lost on the floor. Printing Instructions: This case has been specifically designed without supports needed. I recommend printing with PLA to avoid warping, but if using ABS, scaling up slightly may be necessary to compensate for shrinkage. Assembly Instructions: Print both halves of the case and trim or sand excess material. Gently drive in the short M3 bolt in the front top left hole, cutting a thread as you go. Avoid over-tightening, which can damage the thread and require gluing instead. Once installed, check that the bolt doesn't protrude out the back of the plastic, potentially touching and cracking the LCD. Assemble the two halves together without the tester to ensure they fit flush. Temporarily install the three captive nuts in the rear. Bolt the case together without the tester by inserting the remaining three M3 20mm cap head machine bolts/screws through the front. Don't tighten yet. Once satisfied with the fit, disassemble the case and locate the best spot for the battery wire knot. To do this, start inserting the component tester PCB into the rear of the case from the left side (see photo), without pushing it in too far! Make sure the wires sit in their dedicated channel, note the point where they pass through the gap into the battery compartment (see #7 for more info), and then remove the tester again. If you accidentally insert the PCB too far, you can ease it out by hooking a small Allen key under the top right corner and gently lifting the board. Tie a knot in the battery cable near the clip end, positioned to prevent wires from being pulled out of the board when the clip is applied, while still allowing enough slack for battery replacement. The case is designed so that slack can gather under the PCB when the battery is inserted. It may take several attempts to get the knot right, but it will be worth it if you ever need to change the battery. Once your knot is in place, carefully insert the component tester PCB into the rear of the case, routing the battery clip wires in their channel and taking care not to damage the LCD flex connector. Give it a firm push to ensure it's seated fully. Connect the battery and test it. Fit the front cover and secure with hex bolts, being careful not to over-tighten. Parts List: Tester: 1x 12864 component tester (make sure to get the correct model) Battery: 1x PP3 9v Case nuts and bolts: 3x M3 x 20mm Cap Head Machine Screws, 3x M3 nut Optional cosmetic bolt: 1x M3 x 2mm Cap Head Machine Screw (likely needs to be cut to this length)