Complete Rostock Max V3 E3D Hotend Assembly

thingiverse

This is a comprehensive consolidation of everything I used to create the pictured hotend. The integrated effector and HE280 are not my design, but the clip-on light ring that's attached to it is entirely mine. Effector source/credit: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511 HE280 board cover credit: seemecnc github Here's a detailed list of all the components I used for this project: (5) M3 x 20mm cap screws (2) M3 nuts (6) #4-24 3/4" Machine Screws (3) #6-32 1/2" Machine Screws (1) E3D Complete Bowden Assy (3) Nylon ball arms (1) HE280 Accelerometer board (3) BFB0312HA-A Brushless DC Box Fans (layer fans) (1) 80mm LED ring (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015Z7B42A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) (3) M3 6mm cap screws (1) rostock_max_effectorplatform-_fan_shroud_combo_alt printed in Nylon-X (1) light_ring_1.0 Rev D_repaired printed in Nylon-X (1) HE280 Assembly - 71258 Cover for Mount for HE280 PCB-1 printed in clear Form 2 resin (available here: https://www.3dprinteddebris.com/listing/499879672/rostock-max-v3-clearfrosted-pcb-top) I'm still waiting on the light ring to arrive, so I left the 12VDC accesory line hanging loose for now. I'll probably get shocked before the part arrives - that's a safe bet. Going forward, I plan to add a latching switch on top of the PCB cover (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ45WV3/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and wire it to the LED ring so I can turn it on and off. UPDATE 2/27/17: Installed light ring and switch. It's a little dimmer than I would have hoped, but it gets the job done. I ended up leaving the switch floating in the open position so that I can switch it off mid-print without disturbing the hotend. This mod is highly effective, looks really cool (in my opinion), and was definitely worth the time and money invested in terms of improvement in print quality. Printer Settings Printer Brand: SeeMeCNC Printer: Rostock MAX BYOE Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: .2 Infill: 100%