Color-Click-Button

Color-Click-Button

prusaprinters

<p>Have your parents ever told you not to fiddle with the buttons of your cloth? Well, here you have a button specially designed to fiddle around with. This button has an integrated compliant mechanism ratchet, that allows you to turn the outer part of the button in one direction, while blocking rotation in the other direction. Also,&nbsp;turning the Button produces a highly satisfying clicking sound.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRL_2qrUm_I"></oembed></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h5>So what is this good for?&nbsp;</h5><ul><li>Have something to fiddle with were ever you wear your clothes equipped with this button&nbsp;</li><li>Show of the cool mechanism&nbsp;</li><li>Most important: annoy everyone around you with the wonderful clicking sound you can produce with this button - if you like clicking with a ballpoint pen, you will love this&nbsp;</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h5>Wait, wasn't there something about changing the color?&nbsp;&nbsp;</h5><p>There are two versions of this button. One with windows to have a good look at the mechanism. The second version allows you to change the color of the button-front by turning the outer part.&nbsp;</p><p>In the color change &nbsp;version you can choose between two covers, one with hexagonal holes, and one with holes that maximize the color change effect. The second option looks a bit like the warning sign for radioactive radiation, which might not be appropriate in every situation.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><h5>Ideas what to use the color change variant for:&nbsp;</h5><ul><li>Show your mood&nbsp;</li><li>Match the color with your outfit&nbsp;</li><li>Transfer secret messages between agents in an undercover situation&nbsp;</li><li>Show if you're feeling radioactive today (with the "Color_Cover_Max" and a yellow / black button)&nbsp;</li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h3>How to print this</h3><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>The provided G-Code prints the normal version from PETG - each other variant needs to be sliced by yourself.</strong></p><p>&nbsp;</p><h4>General:&nbsp;</h4><ul><li><strong>I highly suggest to use a 0.25mm nozzle for this print, because this is what this model is tuned for.</strong> If you scale up the model a bit, you might be able to do it with a 0.4mm nozzle, but the button will be to big to be really usable. Also you loose the elegance of the tiny mechanism.&nbsp;</li><li>This print requires quite thigh tolerances, so make sure your printer is tuned for this (proper belt tension, nothing is lose, ect.).&nbsp;</li><li>I used PETG, but other materials might work as well.&nbsp;</li></ul><h4>Slicer settings:&nbsp;</h4><ul><li>Set "infill" to 100%&nbsp;</li><li>Layer height is 0,15mm&nbsp;</li><li><strong>Make sure the elephant foot compensation is turned on at least on 0.1mm&nbsp;</strong></li><li>When you print multiple parts in one job, use sequential printing to reduce stringing and improve print quality&nbsp;</li><li><strong>For the "Compliant Part" use the "fuzzy skin" option on outside walls and set the "fuzzy skin thickness" to 0,5mm - otherwise you button will be harder to turn&nbsp;</strong></li></ul><p>&nbsp;</p><h4>Printing and assembling the "normal version"&nbsp;</h4><ul><li>Print the parts "Base.3MF", "Compliant_Part.3MF" and "Cover.3MF"&nbsp;</li><li>Remove all stringing, as it might block the mechanism later&nbsp;</li><li>Carefully insert the toothed side of the "Base" into the side without the shoulder of the "Compliant Part".&nbsp;</li><li>Align the&nbsp;notches in the "Cover" with the matching wedges in the "Base" and press the "Cover" into the "Base" from the toothed side. The safest way is to place the "Base" with the "Compliant Part" on a flat surface and press the Cover in with your thumb. Don't use a hammer or pliers, or your button might end up with a blocked mechanism.&nbsp;</li><li>Turn the button several times to make sure the mechanism is running smoothly.&nbsp;</li></ul><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j994gxeHQmc"></oembed></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><h4>Printing and assembling the "color change version"&nbsp;</h4><ul><li>Print the parts "Base.3MF", "Compliant_Part.3MF" and "Color_Cover_Hex.3MF" OR "Color_Cover_Max.3MF"&nbsp;</li><li>For the "Colorwheel" you need to make a multi-colour print. Don't be affright if you have never done this. It is super easy and you don't need additional hardware (like the MMU).&nbsp;&nbsp;<ul><li>This instructions apply for the Prusa i3 MK3 and Prusa Slicer, other printers might be different.&nbsp;</li><li>Drag and drop the "Colorwheel.3MF" file into PrusaSlicer&nbsp;</li><li>Click "No" when asked if you want to save changes&nbsp;</li><li>Click "No" when you are asked if you want the dimensions of the object to be recalculated&nbsp;</li><li>Click "Yes" when asked if the file should be loaded as one object with multiple parts&nbsp;</li><li>Click the imported object and place it on the face without the little pins (press "F" and click the face you want the object to lay on)&nbsp;</li><li>In PrusaSlicer, first select the correct printer, nozzle size, layer hight and filament type&nbsp;</li><li>Go to "Printer Settings" -&gt; "General" -&gt; "Capabilities" -&gt; "Extruders" and set it to 2&nbsp;</li><li>Go to "Printer Settings" -&gt; "Custom G-Code" -&gt; "Color Change G-code" and type in "M600" into the textbox&nbsp;</li><li>Go to "Print Settings" -&gt; "Multiple Extruders" -&gt; "Wipe Tower" and deactivate the checkbox at the "Enable" setting, to disable the wipe tower&nbsp;</li><li>Go to "Plater", in the "Object List" choose "Extruder2" for the Objects "body7484163", "body7484056" and "body7484043" (should be the first three parts) from the dropdown menus.&nbsp;</li><li>Slice as usual&nbsp;</li><li>When you print the part, the printer stops after the purge line and unloads the filament. Follow the instructions on the display and load the first color you want to use. Start with the darker color. After the three small segments are printed, the printer stops again and allows you to change to the second color you want to use. The overall print time is only about 3 minutes.&nbsp;</li><li>Remove all stringing, as it might block the mechanism later&nbsp;</li><li>To assemble the button, carefully insert the toothed side of the "Base" into the side without the shoulder of the "Compliant Part".&nbsp;</li><li>Insert the "Colorwheel" into the other side of the "Compliant Part", make sure to align the little pins with the matching holes.&nbsp;</li><li>Align the&nbsp;notches in the "Cover" with the matching wedges in the "Base"&nbsp;and press the "Cover" into the "Base" from the toothed side. The safest way is to place the "Base" with the "Compliant Part" on a flat surface and press the Cover in with your thumb. Don't use a hammer or pliers, or your button might end up with a blocked mechanism.&nbsp;</li><li>Turn the button several times to make sure the mechanism is running smoothly.&nbsp;</li></ul></li></ul><figure class="media"><oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nl0foakGkmI"></oembed></figure><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Have fun with the button and leave a comment if you like the model, have a wish for another version or if something didn't work out for you.&nbsp;</p><p>Credits: The mechanism for the ratchet is based on an idea i found in the "Handbook of Compliant Mechanisms" by Larry L. Howell, Spencer P. Magleby and Brian M. Olsen. Thank you for this wonderful book.&nbsp;</p>

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