Cocoon Create Touch Mosfet Bracket

thingiverse

I'm not convinced that the Cocoon Touch requires a MOSFET due to the lack of compatible brackets, but considering its similarities to the Wanhao I3 Plus, I'll take a chance and say that adding a MOSFET won't make it any more hazardous. This design is based on patprints' mosfet bracket, which I thought might fit my Cocoon Touch. However, his was for the I3 with an external control box - or so I think. At least his had the exact same hole slots as the BIQU Mosfet board that I ordered from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07BXVGHMW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, so this one reuses some of that model and the concept of using standoff's as anchor points. I added a couple of 2mm thick braces to reduce the chance of it bending or flapping around, but the prototype in the photos doesn't have them and seems fine - I have to bend it deliberately to make it move. You'll need: 4x M3 bolts 4mm, 5mm or 6mm - you choose. You might get away with up to 8mm but I haven't checked. These are to hold the board to the print. 2x 25cm lengths of .5mm thick wire or 1x 20cm length of .5mm thick wire with two cores (i.e for the pos and neg) - you need 20cm if you're going to replace the whole wire or about 15cm if you can be bothered re-doing the pins and just want to extend it. Cut it so it will be neat and have a little slack. 1x Mosfet board - I recommend the BIQU one for this print - it can be bought from a few places. Amazon and Aliexpress, probably others. It's going to be a bit fiddly installing it, so here's what I'd suggest: 1. Loosen the wire clamp screws on the mosfet board 2. Install the M3 bolts to attach the board to the print 3. Unbolt and gently slide the main board down out of the way 4. Slot the two remaining holes of the print over the two stand offs closest to the Y axis motor 5. Reinstall the mainboard, you'll notice the top two bolts now hold the bracket down firmly 6. Wire it up - I'll let you figure this out based on the wiring diagrams that are everywhere. But here's a few tips: - At least with the BIQU board, the two wires from the power supply can be routed around the Y axis motor without having to go in a loop - ie use the side of the clamps between the clamps and the heat sink. - You can shorten the heat bed wires if you please. - The included paired .5m gauge wire that goes back to the white connector on the MOSFET can either be extended or replaced but you'll have to be careful disassembling the plug so you don't wreck the internal catch mechanism. p.s. This is my first model I've ever made and released. It printed and fit beautifully for me on my first print, so that was pretty cool. I'd love to hear any feedback if you have any. I used Tinkercad to make the model, took about an hour of messing around shaving off corners etc. Updates: 24/02/2019 - Tidied up the strut so its fully touching and added a 2nd version with 2mm extra on the height - so there's a 2mm and 4mm version now.