Circular Quick-ish print filament dry box

thingiverse

Update 2 (1/20/19): Adding box for desicant packets. Update 1 (1/20/19): tested the new lid and it works well. Updated the pictures. With the silicagel packs on the top or bottom of the spool I don't think the airflow is gooe enough so I'm going to add a box to the side to hold the packs on the outside so there's better airflow with the filament. Untested and pictures are from an earlier design I tried to do with a TPU gasket that didn't work so well, so keep that in mind. I wanted a small quick-ish to print dry box that I could mount on the top of my Delta printer I keep at work. the lid is 210mm diameter, so you'll need a printer that can do a least that to print this. Parts: 1x - 5/16" 5" long hex bolt 3x - 5/16" nut 2x - Lid 1x - Cylinder (pint last in case you have to scale) 1x - Threaded Filament Guide 2x - Skateboard bearing (608) conical filament holder (example: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3223963) Optional 1x - 1/8" PT pneumatic connector (for bowden tube, 6mm or 4mm) 1x - 1.75mm (4mm OD) or 3mm (6mm OD) bowden tube 1x - Hygrometer Mount 1x - Hygrometer (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BLY177S/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_KjarCbGTRJ5DT ) Print the cylinder in "spiralize outer contour mode" in Cura. Not sure how to do that in other slicers. You don't strictly need to do this, but this is how I did it. For cutting the holes in the cylinder wall, I found it was easier to put a ring of hot glue quickly on the part and squishing it against the cylinder wall before it cools. Then go around the edges of the part with glue to seal it. From the back side you can then cut the holes with an exacto knife. I then used the tip of my hot glue gun to slightly melt around the inside edges to smooth things out. There's room for dry packs under the spool. For Ziro spools, which is the PLA I use, one side of the spool hole is inset a bit. If you have a spool that isn't like this you might need to scale the Z axis to make the cylinder taller to fit your filament roll.