Cherry Pi III USB and XBox power box

thingiverse

This is a small box that enables me to connect an unmodified power plug from an Xbox 203W PSU directly into my Cherry Pi delta printer (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:543303). The box also provides a convenient way to turn the PSU on and off, either by using the switch or by making a connection with the PS-ON connection on the RAMPS board. Additionally, it allows for connecting a USB lead. The design was primarily intended for the Cherry Pi but can be adapted to work for any printer that uses 2 rails made from 20x20 aluminium extrusion and M5 t-nuts. UPDATE: On April 26, I made some improvements to make the box more secure. The changes were based on the original 2 screws mounting holes. I've added 2 extra mounting holes for even greater security, but these extra holes will only work properly if there are about 30mm between centers of the two extrusions. However, the design still remains functional without the new holes and can be used with just the standard 2 screws. Also, the FreeCAD file that created this box was previously incomplete. It contained a design flaw that made editing challenging but did not affect the final print quality. The flaw has since been corrected, thanks to input from other members of the FreeCAD forum. UPDATE: May 27 proved necessary as it was found out that using an Xbox PSU with this particular box design would lead to insufficient power supply. After a significant redesign effort in OpenSCAD and taking full advantage of its parametric capabilities, a new box design was created and posted on thingiverse at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:851611. Here are the print instructions: To make this case, it is necessary to use 2 parts that must be aligned in specific ways. Print the back plate on its bottom side first, and the front cover should also be placed face-up while printing with reinforcement pointing towards the inside of the printer casing. As a matter of importance, ensure proper support for both print settings to avoid warping, specifically support should not exceed below the PSU socket area on the case, but support may need to be applied to it. No supports are needed on the top layer though. Cleaning up 3mm holes in the mounting areas can improve stability after the initial assembly and this also includes drilling into the 2.5mm USB mount holes for an even snugger fit. However, do not forget that you'll have to take your drill with you - to say at least clean out all of those tiny 5mm mounting holes on the base unit or it simply won't hold as well once placed there after initial assembly of your components; be sure and avoid damaging these very important tiny mounts when performing drilling. Cleaning is best left up until last because the case lid itself has very precise cut-outs made which can only ever be removed by using drill bits and removing just a few tiny 3mm plastic mounting screws, which can cause significant delays as soon as one begins to try scraping off excess resin left on it following initial prints. When using PLA material with this type of thickness, do make sure to have enough to spare before getting started. After finishing assembly be sure to properly align these parts correctly; the cover part is actually a perfect fit when printed using a small layer height, such as 0.3mm (just make sure not to push it on very tightly!), then tighten any loose connections.