Cheerson CX-10C bottom body part

thingiverse

This is a top-notch replacement body part for Cheerson CX-10C quadcopter, that fantastic nano quad with a camera. It's an amazing toy, but the original bottom body part is fragile and starts developing cracks and feet breaking off only after a few tough (like falling on a wooden floor from 1.5m height after hitting a wall and losing control) crashes. I've looked all over eBay for spare CX-10C body, and it costs somewhere around 10 euros a pop, which is about 10 times as much I would pay for such a thing. And since I was fed up with putting broken feet back and gluing/soldering them on, I designed this. It may not look as sleek as the original piece, but it does the job of holding everything together pretty well. It doesn't have the original piece's latches on the end of each beam, but it still clamps each motor in place good enough (it seems) only by 3 (kinda tight) lips and standoff at the bottom. As for the flight ability of this quadcopter, it doesn't seem to suffer much - I'm still getting the same ~2m15s flight time I used to get with original body part on. It flies fine, it does flips, everything seems just right. So now I don't have to worry about breaking its feet again, since I can print the replacement for the only really vulnerable part (props don't seem to break easily, they just bend instead) in just a little under 30 minutes :). UPDATE 25/01/16 Adding new version with more refined feet - see bottom21.stl. UPDATE 31/01/16 Adding CAD files to the thing. There's also a GitHub repository now: https://github.com/KP1533TM2/cx10-parts Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Migbot Prusa i3 Rafts: No Supports: Doesn't Matter Resolution: 0.08mm per layer, 1 perimeter-wide walls Infill: 100% inside thicker parts, everything else is just walls. Notes: Slice this thing upside down, it was designed to be printed from top to bottom. I've had some troubles tuning Slic3r so it would actually use bridge settings for small gaps, so you may want to turn supports on. All "mandatory" supports are already in the model. This piece on the photos was accidentally done with 0.15mm layer height and it turned out fine, although I intended to print it with 0.08mm height. Everything from 0.1mm and below should be alright. In case of Slic3r, all walls should be 1 perimeter wide. Curaengine seems to do its own thing with two perimeters very close to each other, but curaengine-sliced print with supports turned out fine, too. Battery compartment grill relies on your printer's ability to bridge gaps nicely, so you may need to fine-tune that. Printing with PLA worked absolutely fine for me, but YMMV. And just for the record, I was using 0.3mm nozzle and Slic3r for slicing. If you get fuzzy, non-plain, fine zigzag pattern perimeters with Slic3r, try to increase extrusion width until all perimeters become normal and straight. UPDATE 25/01/16 I was mostly using Slic3r before, but I'm starting to get a hang of Curaengine now, and I like it. Besides being faster than Slic3r, it also seems to produce better results and has simpler setup. Having said that, over the past few days I tried to print this thing sliced with Curaengine both with and without supports, and they both come out fine :). Post-Printing Snap off all the supports with small (preferably sharp) side cutters, and just fit it on your quad. Start fitting motors first (be careful not to pinch the wiring), make sure camera fits in place, and also be careful not to pinch and push the battery too hard. There's not much else to it, really. How I Designed This OpenSCAD and LibreCAD were involved :). I may post sources in the near future, since I need to tidy them up a bit...