Cheap DIY 3KU Removable Flexible Print Bed mod

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Prusa MK3 Inspired Removable Flexible Build Plate for 3Ku Delta v1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxGM_-663uE This upgrade is one of the best I've ever done to this printer. Removing prints can be a real pain, especially when they stick to the PEI sheet too well. On my Taz6, I actually cut myself removing stuck prints. Even on the 3ku, it's hard to remove stuck prints because the towers get in the way of your arms and removal tools. Not to mention that the removal tools can damage your print bed surface and the model being printed. No more stuck prints! They come off with ease now, without leaving tool marks or risking cut hands. This project is a DIY endeavor, so some trade-offs were made. The type of metal sheet used was not spring steel like Prusa's MK3 bed, but rather a similar material that is easier to source locally in larger sizes. I opted for the type of metal sold at Home Depot, which is zinc-plated and 26-gauge. The hardest part of this project was cutting the metal sheet. I gave my work buddy the template linked below, and he clamped it between two pieces of wood before cutting it to prevent curling. He used a jig saw to cut the sheet, but the screw holes came out rough, so I had to file them more open. I also had to file the edges of the metal all around the circumference of the plate. Make sure the screw cutouts line up with the screws on the aluminum plate. More filing may be needed to enlarge the cutouts. You want the screw cutouts to be just as big as they need to be, not bigger. File down any remaining rough edges. The screw cutouts help the magnets from stopping lateral movement of the bed plate. After you have a fitting sheet plate, you're golden! Cut the silicone double-sided tape into the shapes of magnets and place them evenly spaced out around the heat pad. One-touch leveling with nozzle as probe still works because the plate is also metal like the aluminum plate. Redo your auto-calibration and bed leveling just like previously. Then apply your choice of surface and print. The magnets are very strong, but an added security feature nonetheless. I ended up using 7 magnets. I'm not sure what effect adding a magnet to the center of the heat pad will have, so I just placed magnets around it. I didn't need to double the magnets for more pulling force, but I did add more than shown in the picture because with just 4 magnets, there were places where the plate wasn't flush with the heat bed. I still have to test if repeated plate removals will affect bed leveling. I wonder if over time the plate will become unlevel from removals and repeated bending, since it's not spring steel after all. I'll report back. Credit to Improper Engineering for a DIY version of Prusa's MK3 bed https://youtu.be/-HI0PLQ3ThU Materials: * Build Surface: Blue tape, BuildTak, Lokbuild, PEI * Magnets: http://appliedmagnets.com/bar-magnets-2-in-x-1-2-in-x-1-8-in-high-temp-n42sh-neodymium-magnets-p-608.html * 3M Double Sided Silicone Tape: http://a.co/4bNJBU8 * Sheet Metal: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-12-in-x-24-in-26-Gauge-Zinc-Plated-Sheet-Metal-801537/204225706 * 2 Pieces of wood larger than template, stops metal sheet from curling while cutting * My Bed template for metal sheet - need a bigger 3D printer then 3ku or give STL directly to metal cutter.