Cheap and affordable IR bed autoleveling sensor

thingiverse

I found those expensive sensors on the market to be too pricey, like this one from Escher3D: http://www.escher3d.com/pages/order/products/product1.php. I also searched for IR Z Probe 1.4 online at AliExpress: https://it.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170306012918&SearchText=IR+Z+Probe+1.4, but it was still too expensive. After some Googling, I discovered a more affordable option on Omron's website: http://www.ia.omron.com/product/item/eesp4006h/?print=true. However, this one was also pricey, so I decided to search further and found a similar product on AliExpress at an astonishing price of about $18.00 for 5 items: https://it.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs-EE-SPY402-limit-reflective-photoelectric-switch-photoelectric-sensor-for-Omron/32383295312.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.NURkPr. Print Settings: Printer: Geeetech Prusa i3 Pro B Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: .20mm Infill: 80% Notes: You can use a lower infill value (25% and up). Post-Printing: You may need to clean the enclosure corners to avoid friction with the support. How I Designed This: Tinkercad Custom Section Project I haven't yet received the 'gimmick', so, knowing its exact dimensions, I began drawing in Tinkercad a support that fits my future D-bot e3D-V6 extruder. The support utilizes the 2 lower fan screws of e3D-V6 and the enclosure can slide up and down for little adjustments where necessary (about 5mm total). The sensor sensitivity is 5mm and should work well with 3mm borosilicate glass. If an underneath aluminium heater interferes, it may be necessary to paint it in black. BOM and instructions: You need only: n. 2 M3x10mm or more depending on where you fix the support n. 1 M3x5mm screw n. 3 M5 washer n. 1 M3 nut n. 1 flat 4 pin connector n. 3 cables I marked the enclosure with pin connections (Ground - Signal - n.c. - +5-24Vdc). Fix the nut into the hexagonal hole; with some pressure, it stays firm in place. Once fixed to extruder, adjust the enclosure to the right height from bed and tighten the screw. Connect the 3 pins to the board Z endstop socket, paying great attention not to invert polarity when connecting to your board, you could fry it! The autoleveling procedure is not covered here. Caveat: This project is only theoretical at this point. If someone already owns an e3D-V6, please inform me about discrepancies...