Chasis para montar una impresora 3D para experimentar

thingiverse

The main goal is to build a 3D printer for testing purposes. **First, the chassis** Since my workshop is very small, I will start with a small cube of 44x44x44 dimensions. I want to make the printer using common materials, not specialized ones (I hope this decision will reduce costs and encourage more people like me to experiment). I have decided to use anodized aluminum profiles of 20x20mm size. If someone prefers to build with VSLOT or TSLOT profiles, they can find that the measurements are the same, and with small modifications, what is described here will be sufficient. Although the chassis can be used for any type of printer, I will focus on the CoreXY type. With these last reinforcements, I consider that I already have the chassis design. **First experiment:** Reduce the weight of movable parts. This will result in lower consumption, less inertia, and increased speed. The idea is to use linear bearings made of Teflon. If I replace 8mm steel bars with aluminum profiles of 20x20 or 16x16 size, I can reduce the weight. If I use plastic (better Teflon) linear bearings instead of ball bearings, I can also reduce the weight. **Second experiment:** Add three traction points to the bed. We are used to having beds with one or two traction points. If we add three points, vibrations and inaccuracies will be reduced. The parts have been designed to be printed in PETG, which is harder than PLA. Tornillos M4 are used. I am open to ideas and collaborations. **Estimated cost of materials:** * 4 profiles of 2m of 20x20mm size (40€) * 1 Electronic kit Arduino+ RAMPS 1.4 + 5 pololu DRV8825+ display LCD12864 (30€) * 1 Power supply 12v 20A 240w (18€). It is likely that I will use two power supplies (one for the hotbed). * 1 Set of 5 motors 17HS4401 (35€) * 1 Clone of Titan extruder (10€) * 1 Hotend (30€) * 1 Power supply for hotend (15€) * 1 Cooling system (20€) * 1 Bed leveling sensor (10€) * 1 Camera (50€) **Progress:** I have printed the parts of the frame in PETG at 0.2mm layer height. The interior of the rollers needs to be sanded with a fine water stone to eliminate imperfections from the printing process. I have attached the two parts of the roller with M2.5x15 screws and a head avellanada. I have printed some pieces to adjust the separation between the roller parts and the tube in question (seen in black in the picture). These adjustment pieces were printed with 0.1mm layer height in PETG. The assembly slides perfectly, and if you want more smoothness, you can apply a little silicone grease (in my case "3 en 1" spray). The only drawback (as expected) is that the parts are adjusted for a piece of profile and a position, so rotating them 90 degrees may make them not slide as smoothly. I have chosen the electronic kit Arduino+ RAMPS 1.4+ LCD12964 + POLOLU DRV8835 because it is very standard in the market, and I have been doing tests with Marlin and Repetier. I have liked Repetier a lot. I have started assembling the lower part of the chassis. I have borrowed some parts from "Mundo C.N.C. con Arduino" for the support of the rollers' bearings. I have redesigned the roller to increase the printing area to 194x273mm. All motor supports are now ready, and I have started with the bed support. I have advanced a bit more in the chassis assembly.