
CB500X Fly Screen / Bikini Fairing (2016+)
prusaprinters
<p>This should work for bikes with the 8.5" or 216mm spacing between windshield mounting brackets and 40mm hole spacing for the M6 bolts. Remove the old brackets completely. </p><p>Print solid with all perimeters. Suggested settings for 0.4mm nozzle: </p><p>Layer Height: 0.28mm</p><p>Inner Perimeters: 0.56mm</p><p>Outer Perimeters: 0.53mm </p><p>Number of Perimeters: 6</p><p>Note about perimeters: I use SuperSlicer's Width/Spacing calculator to get these numbers. If you are doing the same, set the “width+overlap” to 0.5mm for normal and external perimeters, and then you can set your preferred layer height. </p><p>Gap Fill OFF (saves unnecessary travel moves) or use Arachne Perimeter Generator</p><p>USE A BRIM OR A RAFT. I find a two-layer raft is great for ensuring the bottom edge is nice and clean looking. </p><p>Requires supports under the main overhangs on the bottom. Use custom/paint-on supports. Set Top Support Distance to 0.1, especially if using a material prone to warping such as ASA or ABS. </p><p>Speaking of warping, you may find that the lower area that touches the supports warps outwards a bit, increasing the distance between the lower mounting holes compared to the upper ones. You can always use a heatgun or blowdrier to help massage this back into shape. Best bet is to get it mounted with screws just started, heat it up slightly, and then tighten down the screws. Or leave it out in direct sun if done in PLA. ;)</p><p>You may need to turn the model 45 degrees to fit on your bed. </p><p>Paint your seam along the inside edge so it isn't visible by anyone except you when on the bike.</p><p>This should be fine to print in PLA as long as it is printed solid, as noted above. It is not a critical structural part and it is 3mm thick plus hard mounted. </p><p> </p>
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