Catan - base game 3D (high resolution MMU) - Unofficial fan design

prusaprinters

<p><strong>WARNING: It was brought to my attention that the models are not sliced correctly in multicolour mode by the updated Prusa Slicer versions. I am in the process of repairing the models but this may take some time. Updated models feature a “V2” in front of the file name. Single colour prints should not be affected by this problem.&nbsp;</strong><br><br><br>This is my take on Settlers of Catan (base game) in 3D compatible with and based on the quasi 3d printer standard of hexagonal magnetic base plates designed by Dakanzla (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2525047">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2525047</a>; a remix of his base plate here on prusaprinters: <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3471-magnetic-base-plate-for-settlers-20/files">ttps://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3471-magnetic-base-plate-for-settlers-20/files)</a></p><p>The set is specifically designed for printing with a 0.25 mm nozzle at 0.1 mm layer height and might not work out well with a regular 0.4 nozzle. While it is also designed for multicolour print with MMU2 (5-colours), it should be possible to print it in single colour too (simply change the setting to single material print in the Slicer).&nbsp;</p><p>There are several great Catan sets available on Thingiverse but to my knowledge no full sized Catan set has been hosted here on Prusaprinter so far. I want to mention specifically Dakanzla's design (<a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2525047">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2525047</a>) here which inspired me to engage in this entire project. My first piece, the city, was inspired, ironically not by his city design but by his settlement design. I thought such a church belongs to the city and hence it started …&nbsp;</p><p>What I wanted to achieve with this design was to get an island that is as consistent in scale as possible (which still includes a number of compromises nonetheless of course) so that one can play the game on a somewhat believable gamified coherent island.&nbsp;</p><p>Addtionally I chose the colour set in a way that the island itself is a bit more muted in its pallette while the player figures feature strong vibrant colours to make it easier to see what is going on on the island.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>This set should be perfectly playable but it is not suitable for small children. It contains peaky objects and while it is certainly durable enough for careful play, some elements will not withstand abuse. This is after all my private edition, so I don't have to make the compromises which official board game makers need to make. ;)</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Printing advice</strong></p><p>Printing with a 0.25mm nozzle and at a layer height of 0.1mm is tricky (clogging is your enemy) but perfectly possible. The MMU makes printing with them trickier as you are limited in the extend you can raise the nozzle temperature to prevent clogging. Therefore the choice of filament, which is less prone to clogging the nozzle during retractions, is important.&nbsp;One can also modify retraction parameters but that might in turn worsen stringing.&nbsp;<br>&nbsp;</p><p>Many elements use double layer techniques for colour effect. You can see that in the slicer files when thin layers (0.1-0.2 mm) of one colour are on top of another colour. You should test with your materials if your combination gives a nice effect. The top colour should not be too opaque for that. You can use the “dual layer calibration” file to test the suitability of colour combinations.&nbsp;</p><p>Slicer seems to be rather buggy when opening existing projects. In order to see the project, open the file by using “open project” and immediately press “Slice” without doing anything else in between. The slicing can take considerable time for some objects but when its done you should be free to go back to the object mode. All the files are saved as 3mf sessions of Slicer as key modifications were done with Slicer options. Basically all files should be ready to print after slicing and exporting as gcode.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Print slow if things don't look good or fail</strong></p><p>Adjust the printing speed at the printer directly according to needs. I generally set back the speed to 75%, sometimes 66%, once beyond the easy to print base section. The forest is especially tricky and might be better to print at 50% speed.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Coast frame tiles</strong></p><p>The 3 different coast frame tiles are actually 7 colour prints with magnet insertion step. So they have 2-3 stops introduced via g-code (go to the Preview window and look at the height ruler, there you have to right lick on the + symbols and choose “edit g-code” to view the added g-code for the pause function). 1st coast has two stops, in the first you have to switch colours from blue to green and from clear to brown in the second stop you have to insert the magents (same as in the hexagon bases: 3x6 mm), the 2nd and 3rd coast split the two colour changes to two separate stops. Change first blue to green and then clear to brown. At the third stop comes the addition of magnets. When you want to resume the print, press the knob one time. The display should show “heating” then. Do not press the knob more often than that as it might cancel the heating and lead to a mess when the printer resumes nontheless.&nbsp;</p><p>In order to prevent inverse warping after removing the ocean tiles from the build plate these elements are printed at only 40°C bed temperature. Use a Kores stick or something equivalent to prevent adhesion problems.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Post processing</strong></p><p>I smoothened the token surface on both sides with 1000P wet sanding paper. This creates wonderfully smooth surfaces that look really great in my opinion.&nbsp;</p><p>Crossings, settlements and cities are printed with a support ring. This needs to be broken off. The underside of the extensions might need to be cleaned by scalpel from excess material. If layers are too fused, one can lower the support rings by 0.1 mm in the 3mf file.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><strong>Desert? What desert?</strong></p><p>My island is far too lush to have a desert. It has a big castle though! And those knights are nasty and collecting taxes across the island, almost as if they were robbers. Players might influence them though where to go next for the tax.&nbsp;</p><p><br><strong>What else is needed?</strong></p><p>Additionally to the elements included here, one needs only 19 copies of a magnetic base plate like this one here on prusaprinters or any equivalent design on thingiverse:<br><a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3471-magnetic-base-plate-for-settlers-20/files">https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/3471-magnetic-base-plate-for-settlers-20/files</a></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>To play the game you need a copy of the base game for the cards and dices.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Disclaimer: This is a non-commercial unofficial fan design and I have no affiliation to the publisher Cosmos or the game designer Klaus Teuber. This design includes small and pointy objects and is not suitable for small children.&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p>