Cat Toy Race Track

thingiverse

Three of my four cats give this paws up enthusiastically! My fourth cat thinks it's completely unremarkable - just another total yawn inducer! Check out this fun Cataction video: https://vid.me/8lmp It's easy to see what the pictures are all about - assemble a track (at least six curve sections minimum print), put in the ball, and either let your cat have fun with it alone or play a game of kitty tetherball. I recommend having at least one tunnel or peephole section because cats adore putting their paws into holes to grasp their prey! My cats prefer topCut sections - if only I had printed four of them instead of just two sideCuts, that would've been even better. The straight sections enable you to increase the diameter of the track. Kinds of Track Sections: 60 Degree curves (topCut, sideCut, tunnel) 60 Degree curves with a 7mm high hill in the middle (topCut) 100mm Straight sections (topCut, sideCut, tunnel, peephole) The ball itself has various versions. The solid ball was simple to make and printed flawlessly. It's hard not to love its design! On the other hand, the hollow ball joined by pins cut from filament prints effortlessly as well. You could even add a little bell inside if you'd like. I used PETG for printing the track sections (the ball is made of ABS). It was my first time working with this material, but I really liked it! The way it combines the flexibility of ABS without warping or cracking and the way it lets light through makes everything clear to the cats when the ball gets hidden in a tunnel. However, the metallic sheen of PETG bothered me as did the numerous fine hairs left on the finished product everywhere - a drawback for sure. So, I suggest using natural PLA for this print, but remember it won't be as flexible so puzzle parts may require some filing for optimal fitment. Plus, it would have looked more beautiful if you asked me. Print Settings Rafts: Not really necessary! Supports: Always there Resolution: Set at 0.2mm Infill: Use a filling density of 20% Notes: The mistake I made when creating this top tab connection points was by thickening them to exceed the thickness of wall for printing purposes (by going beyond the outer shell) in error - hence air can still be present between the prints when not printing on a platform that includes the print settings, or simply support everything. It's better this way though - especially so as my previous mistake meant filing could end up costing quite more in resources, not just of cost itself but because the materials to fit those little slits also need the tabs for puzzle parts at 100% thickness - so that first layer at full width should definitely help if you decide on a build with these elements without any other assistance than simply what's called support. Because I don't have enough 1.75mm filament, I wasn't able to verify the correct size of shell balls meant for usage of pins cut from this kind specifically made of material having diameter one seventy fifth - if such cannot be located elsewhere; it seems a likely event at first sight since that makes sense but only three millimeters were printed then later adjusted down and there are more issues arising like with print quality generally expected due simply enough said reasons I could also do without extra parts when necessary otherwise always choose what serves better in any kind or another thing just go check freeCad designs given along here - now if this seems still problematical remember changes made by nois diameter adjustments should be fine and so will get easily fixed. Or better still print a piece yourself with adjusted dimensions you want to keep in case you are more worried about the performance but don't mind trying new things since these can indeed change many of issues mentioned above simply make copies modify necessary elements adjust appropriately.