Case for DROK Amp

thingiverse

Here is the rewritten text: This is a protective case for the 50w x 2 mini-amp by DROK, as listed at the following link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074FR4B7H. It's unclear if it will fit any other amps. Wall o' Text follows... First off: The buttons are more of a basic "proof-of-concept" than actual functional buttons. They do work, but they're difficult to use due to the tight spacing. However, all of the buttons beyond the + and - are superfluous since most people will be controlling their music playlist from their media device (cell phone, tablet, PC, etc.). The exercise in design for the buttons was centered around how to make an effective and cheap sprung pushrod control assembly. I needed a case for the amp so that it could live outside without becoming stuffed full of dust and other weather-effects. The case is designed around the limitations of ABS/ASA in regards to overhangs and layer adhesion. Walls are fairly thin, but should be printable by most machines using most Styrene filaments. Example print pictured was made using a .4mm nozzle, with some very specific pieces being printed using .35mm extrusion width. Extra consideration was given to case-to-component clearances to reduce and/or eliminate body gap for external openings. Some post-process trimming is likely required for a proper fit. Additionally, due to tolerance variation between the (admittedly cheap) amp board and the completed print, sanding/filing for fitment may be necessary. To this end, the "shim" part is designed so that in case of extra-tight vertical clearance, it can be easily flat-sanded on the bottom to give those last few tenths. The amp comes with two plexi panels - top and bottom - which I have integrated into this design. The bottom plexi panel is kept for rigidity while the top plexi panel is kept to act as a window for the components. I must give credit where credit is due here, and say that this cheap amp has some of the best soldering I've seen. Now the fun part! The holes in the button bar are sized to fit your typical cheap clicky ball-point pen spring and pen well. If you've got some dead clicky pens kicking around, gut them for their springs and the (hopefully empty) pen well tubes. Cut the tubes to length (apologies, I did not take measurements of the pen tubes prior to gluing - I cut them all to relative length for my board), glue one end into the "Button Pad" recess, insert up through the bottom of the "Button Bar", slide the spring over the tube, then glue the button caps onto the tube. This likely sounds more confusing than it is, but should make sense when the pieces are in front of you. Dry-fit all pieces prior to gluing so you can dial in the correct length of the pen tubes to the buttons. Also, the "Button NextBack" is used for both the "Back" and "Next" button pads, just reversed to point in the appropriate directions for their function. I'm going to iterate on the overall button design to try making them truly functional. However, this is a very low priority, so it will be a while before I revisit the design. Kinda burnt out on this project at the moment.