Caliper Data Connector

thingiverse

This is a custom-made cable for some Chinese calipers and tire depth gauges. The button layout should match the pictures provided. If it does, this connector will probably work. For detailed instructions on building this connector cable for the SMD caliper data interface board, visit: https://www.instructables.com/id/Caliper-Data-Interface/ <b>Note that as of 03-APR-2019 there is a version 2 of this connector described at the end.</b> <h1>Version 1</h1> Print both STLs at 0.1mm layer height, 20% infill, no support, with just a skirt, no brim (if you print with a brim it’s a pain to clean up). For wire I used 26AWG 1.27mm pitch flat cable. This is the ubiquitous “jumper cable” product you get with Dupont connectors already attached. For this connector you need 4 conductors, any color. Strip 2cm of insulation off one end as shown in the pictures. Apply solder to the first 15mm of wire from the tip to stiffen the wire. After cleaning up the print of Connector.stl, use a 1.5mm drill bit to enlarge the exit holes and remove any material in between. The goal is to be able to insert all 4 insulated conductors bonded together as shown in the picture. Using the ConnectorNoHandle print, place the 4 soldered conductors in the 1.5mm on center cuts and use this as a guide to insert the wires into the connector with a handle. Push and pull the connector wires into the connector shell until the insulation is seated about 3 to 4mm into the shell. Pull the insulated wires back until you see the bare wires. Apply plastic epoxy. Push and pull the insulated wires into the housing. Set aside and wait for the epoxy to cure. Once cured, trim the ends of the connector wires flush with the connector tip. <h1>Version 2</h1> I’ve added an updated connector. The improvements are: - doesn’t have any sharp bends in the contact wires. - forces the contact wires above the plane of the connector. - contact ends are held in place Downside: - like the original connector, you still need to use a rubber band to keep the connector in place. - cleanup is a bit more difficult than version 1. Print at 100% fill, no support with just a skirt. Because it’s such a tiny print I had to slow down the print and travel speed to 30mm/s, 60mm/s (depending on the accuracy of your printer.) The hole sizes are 1.4 and 0.8mm. I used a cheap set of PCB drill bits to clean out the holes. Strip about 2.5cm of insulation and apply solder to stiffen the wire. Use PCB cleaner to remove the flux residue. Trim the soldered ends by removing the last 2mm. Using the holes at the connector tip as a spacing guide, insert the connector wires and fish the wires through to the tip. Push and pull the connector wires into the connector shell until the insulation is seated about 3 to 4mm into the shell. Pull the insulated wires back until you see the bare wires. Apply plastic epoxy. Push and pull the insulated wires into the housing. Set aside and wait for the epoxy to cure. Once cured, trim the ends of the connector wires flush with the connector tip.