Caliburn Blaster Remix - OZBURN

thingiverse

Firstly, thanks to Captain Slug for making the Caliburn Blaster! This is an Australian metric Caliburn. You can follow the instructions that Captain has created. Probably best not to be your first build, but go for it if your keen enough The barrel extension used was from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2897323 Original Captain Slug design https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2376150 RMAX2 shroud https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3173659 was merged with the Doom Shroud https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3230882 Rail raiser was remixed from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3859857 Dragon skull was remixed and made to fit a 16mm OD barrel from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1386439 NOTES: - Plunger tube size is 40mm OD and 36mm ID cut at 186mm (purchased online from an Australian store) - Barrel size is 16mm OD and 14mm ID cut at around 55cm (1 meter length purchased at Bunnings) alternatively if you can source a 16mm OD with a 13mm ID that will give you a boost in FPS - Using M3 x10mm for everything except to attach the Butt Plate to the Back Butt, that is a M5 machine screw around 20mm give or take long - M5 nuts for the threaded rods or 3/8 depending on what threaded rod you buy - You can cut down some 1.6mm nails for the trigger inserts, Tguard, mag release etc - O-rings used are 3mm for the ramrod base and piston and 2mm for the top of the ramrod but depending on the accuracy of your printer you might need to add some tape - Ramrod is Vanguard style so no need to prime before mag release - M5 threaded rod or you can use 3/8 inch from Bunnings too - You don't need any threaded rod spacers - The priming bars are 12mm x 3mm aluminium flat bars (1 meter purchased from Bunnings) - Will fit full length k25, k26, pro25, pro26 springs etc (these are the only things I needed to source internationally) - You may need to file down the front teeth of the dragon skull (if you choose to print) just a little or they hit the barrel. - The Sear hole is 5.2mm in diameter so you need to grab some nylon 5mm spacers and cut them to fit length ways. (Altronics sell 3mm UNTAPPED Nylon spacers that are 5mm OD, I think Jaycar has them too) Update: Rail Raiser has no rails now, because I didn't need them for attaching the scope (The picture you see posted is the old rail that wasn't quite fitting right) Made a couple of these printed in PETG, PLA and PC. The files labelled with "PC" at the beginning should be printed in Poly Carbonate or ABS or similar. Ive never printed these in PLA or PETG so I'm not sure how they will hold up. On that note....I print the PC parts with 50% infill 4 walls, 4 top and 4 bottom. I printed everything with a minimum of 3 walls, 3 tops and 3 bottoms Some print orientations when you import them into a slicer will be wrong. Adjust accordingly to what your printer can handle. Generally you will not need any supports. The dragon skull will definitely need supports if you decide to print it and the piston will need supports whichever orientation you decide to print it on because of the 90 degree angle where it catches on the sear. Getting 200fps with pro26 spring and the 14mm ID barrel, and 250fps with a 13mm ID barrel Would really love to see the blaster posted here if you get around to printing it :)