CALIBLOCK - Calibration Print Toy

thingiverse

This is the CaliBlock (calibration + block). It's a calibration print that can be also used as a fantastic building toy. If your printer is remarkably well-calibrated, CaliBlocks will snap together like Legos. No pins or screws are required. TAKE THE 1-HOUR CALIBLOCK CHALLENGE! Try to print a "caliblock normal half" in less than one hour. It's an exciting challenge for most printers! To enter the challenge, you must meet these conditions: Be honest; nobody likes cheaters. Actual recorded print time must be under 1 hour, slicer estimates do not count. No scaling, final dimensions must be within +/-1% of the targets. 1-hour CaliBlocks must clip and unclip with other CaliBlock without breaking. Post a close-up "make" photo of the print along with your printer model and slicer settings to prove you succeeded. If you complete the challenge, you earn one million 3D printer points! Version history: Rev 5: initial upload Rev 6: Beveled corners on clips to make it less sharp on hands Rev 7: Beveled some corners at the base of half blocks to further reduce sharpness Rev 7b: Added "tight fit" option to reduce play for people with super-precise printers (from 0.3mm per clip to 0.1mm per clip) This idea was inspired by the 3D Benchy boat (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622). Calibration prints should be fun! This print is perfect for: Overhangs; it's packed with them. However, all overhangs are under 60 degrees, making it fully printable without support! Retraction; there are countless retractions. Print strength; if the clips snap off, your print is too weak! The model geometry is specifically designed to maximize clip strength. Dimension tolerance; the clips should fit snugly but also be removable and reusable. If you're over-extruding, it won't come together properly. Also, the square faces are 20x20mm with a 12x12mm hole, and the edge-to-edge length is 60mm. Ringing and position registration; it's got many great sharp turns to shake your printer! I highly recommend printing two "halves" and gluing them together without support. However, if you want to work on supports too, go ahead and try to print the "whole" model in one go. It should be ideal for testing dissolvable filaments and different slicer support types. Note: I conceived this idea independently, but I want to give credit to the BUBO block for coming up with a similar toy shape before me (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:685490). Print Settings: Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: 0.1-0.3 Infill: Some Notes: I strongly recommend PETG or ABS or other filament with some flex to it. PLA is often too brittle for repeated use of snap-fit components. However, it can be done easily; I have printed several. Use your best overhang settings: small layer heights with print cooling suitable for your chosen filament. Extrusion width should likely be 0.6mm or less; I've been printing at 0.6 and 0.4 with great results. Infill IS required, but can be light (eg ~10-30% depending on pattern). After printing two halves, make sure the snaps fit together. Then, if you want, glue them together flat-to-flat. Choose a glue suitable for your plastic, but regular superglue should work fine with most materials. I've been using Loctite 401; it sets very quickly, but it's great for difficult-to-glue plastics.