Cable Catch II (M3D Micro)

thingiverse

So, my Cable Catch for the Micro has been a moderate success both here and on Pinshape, but let it be known that I am not one to rest on my laurels and that art is never truly complete, only discontinued. A user by the name of philipmalone brought to my attention that the design does not work well with PLA or ABS-R filaments. This is a perfectly valid point. I may use the Tough Ink almost exclusively, but it's not for everyone. This is a pair of modified versions of the cable catch that will favor solid filaments. I got lucky with my print here; it was snug on that corner of the frame, but your results may vary greatly. I didn't bother printing the second version, but since it's just a retooling of the first, your outcomes should be about the same. Print Settings Printer: M3D Micro Rafts: Doesn't Matter Supports: No Resolution: medium/low Infill: FULL Notes: The ones pictured were made using a raft, partly because of some ventilation issues causing prints to warp prematurely (I'll be making an enclosure before too long) and also because it's not the most flattering shade of red and I'm trying to use it up. Post-Printing The Pacifier The Supercatch is all one piece and fairly straightforward, but the Pacifier will involve getting your hands dirty... and a bit sticky if you're not careful. Fair Warning: barring any chisels or hammers or diving boots, fastening the Nuk onto the power cable is an "All Sales Final" sort of affair. You've got two options; 1) Glue the halves together over the cable and simply let it slide up and down the cord, or 2) if you don't want anything left to chance, you can gently coat the inside of the Nuk's barrel with a thin layer of glue to hold the cable permanently in place. Also, bear in mind I'm using a stock version of the power supply that came with my printer. I've heard some people's wall warts lack the M3D logo on the back and look different from mine. I seriously doubt this will lead to any serious discrepancies in cable thickness, but I do suggest inspecting the STL file first before you get going. How I Designed This Tinkercad Now that 123D is no longer with us, I've had to migrate a lot of my design work to Tinkercad. Fusion360 is fine, but doesn't have the same feel or convenience as what I'm used to. I mean, Tinkercad runs on a Chromebook.