C10 Duo - Dual radial cooling fan mount and duct for Tevo Tarantula

thingiverse

I've Printed Out A Few Fan Ducts for My Tevo Tarantula, but I Was Looking for a Better Setup. Making It Possible to Easily See the Distance of the Hotend from the Print Bed and Get Quick Access to Loose Filament is Key. But Also Being Light, Compact, and Extending as Little as Possible from the Front of the X Carriage Keeps Things Balanced. So I Decided to Design My Own Version. I Took Inspiration from Thomas Sanladerer's Live Build on His Youtube Channel, Where He Used Two Metal Body Radial Fans for Cooling on His Atom 2.0 Delta Printer. Rather Than Using Those Expensive Metal Fans, I Was Able to Get a Plastic Version from Aliexpress. Both 12VDC and 24VDC Versions Are Available If You Need Them. The Top Mounts Use the Four Hotend Mounting Holes and Screws on the Top of the X Carriage. The Fans Press Fit into the Top Mounting Bracket Arms, and the Lower Fan Ducts Fit Over the Radial Fan Body - No Screws Needed! You'll Need to Print Two Fan Brackets (Left and Right) and Two Fan Ducts (Left and Right), and Buy 2 X Radial Fans (One for Each Side). These Fan Brackets and Ducts Are Designed to Work with the Stock Tevo Tarantula Hotend Only. I've Run a Few Prints Through My Printer with This New Cooling Setup in PLA, and I've Noticed a Visible Improvement in Print Accuracy - Particularly Around Overhanging Parts and Small Details. Update: After Testing My Design Using a Glass of Water, I Realized It Doesn't Perform Well. The Focus of the Ducts is Too Broad, Not Focused Around the Nozzle, and Located Behind or in Front of the Nozzle. So with New Info to Hand and Improved Fusion 360 Skills, I Created a New Version with Better Air Focus Around the Nozzle. One Thing I Found Out Is That with a More Focused Air Flow, It Can Affect Hotend Temperature Stability, So I Changed to an e3D V6 Clone Heatblock and Matching Silicone Heat Block Sock. This Has Been Great for Keeping a Stable Hotend Temperature, and I Would Highly Recommend Fitting One. This Also Reduces the Heat Transferred into the Nearby Fan Duct. Version 2: This New Version Has Smaller Duct Outlets, More Sweeping Contours, and Tweaked Geometry - Resulting in Better Air Pressure Focus Around the Nozzle. Print Settings: Printer: Tevo Tarantula Prusa i3 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2mm Infill: 20% Notes: Infill Only Needed for the Top Brackets. This Can Be Printed in PLA, But If You Don't Have a Silicone Sock or Cotton Wrap Around Your Heat Block, It May Start to Deform Where It's Close. So Printing the Ducts with ABS May Be a Better Option.