BTT Smart Filament Sensor Mounts for Ender 3 v2

thingiverse

##Description## <body>Install the excellent BTT Smart Filament Sensor on an Ender 3 v2 quickly and easily, without performing any surgery on the sensor or the printer. There are two mounting options: on top of the frame, or next to the extruder. </body> ##Design Features## - Easy to install: no need to disassemble the sensor or the extruder assembly - Easy to print: some supports required but supported surfaces are invisible - Easy to use: sensor snaps securely into mounts - Sensors can be mounted/unmounted during use - Top mounts have plenty of space to feed the filament between sensor and extruder - The compact mount is perfect for side mounted reels ##Versions## - TOP SQUARE LONG: mounts on top 2020 extrusion underneath reel with one M4x10 screw and t-nut. Moves the filament path away from the extruder to let it enter the extruder at a gentler angle. - TOP SQUARE SHORT: as above, but it's a smaller part and the filament path is a bit more aggressive. - TOP ANGLED: mounts the same but is angled 45 degrees and puts the filament further from the printer. All three top mounts have an additional two mounting holes on the back if you really want to strap them down (recommended for LONG and ANGLED, but no biggy). - COMPACT: drops on the X-axis top wheel spacers. This one is perfect if your filament reel is off to the side. It has two optional screw retainers but it works just fine without them. ##What You’ll Need## - BTT (Big Tree Tech) Smart Filament Sensor: it’s the best one out there because it detects when the filament runs out AND when the nozzle is clogged by sensing filament movement. Connector cable is included and it plugs straight into the Ender's 3 v2 motherboard. https://www.biqu.equipment/products/btt-sfs-v1-0-smart-filament-sensor-detection-stuck-blocking-filament-module - One M4x10 screw with a T-nut for top mounts (or 2 or 3 for the more cantilevered ones). - Two (optional) M3x25 screws to hold the compact mount in place; needs the short holes in the little arms carefully tapped and the screws must not be overtightened, just retained. ##Installation## - Print your preferred mount (see *Final Thoughts* below). - Connect the sensor’s wiring to the dedicated port on the Ender’s motherboard (pic.) - You’ll have to let the printer know that there's a sensor there. I have not done this on a stock Ender because I'm using JyersUI which unlocks additional Marlin functionality. Here is the excellent “How-To” video from Bryan Vines of BV3D which tells you everything you need to know: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1zXYwgIPLY&t=18s - Once flashed, go into Control/Advanced, set “Unload Length” to 40mm, enough to pull the filament out of the hotend. Alternatively you can set it to 400mm and that will remove all the filament out of the Bowden tube. The former is quicker, the latter takes longer. - Make sure “Filament Sensor” is ticked, and... - Set "Runout Distance" to 20mm, but please experiment. - Go back to the previous menu, scroll down and click “Store Settings”. - Install the mount. - Clip the sensor into the mount. - Feed the filament into it and print something! ##Use## <body>Before starting a print with the top mounts, remove any slack in the filament by winding it back up on the reel. When the filament runs out or stops feeding (e.g., when the nozzle is clogged), the printer will beep, the extruder will move to a parking position, unload the set amount of filament, and prompt/wait for new filament to be inserted. If the nozzle is clogged you'll probably have to abort the print, but at least you didn't cook your hotend and fill your extruder wheel with chips. Hotend and bed stay heated for a short while, then turn themselves off (yay safety!). Feed new filament all the way in the extruded (zero reload length). It'll then do a little purge, prompt if you'd like to purge more, and once you say "no thank you", it'll resume printing from where it left off. Prompts are divided between the LCD and OctoPrint.</body> ##Caveats## - Flashing firmware, playing with motherboard, etc., all at your own risk. - Always disconnect power before doing anything to a printer. - Have not tried the sensor with Creality's firmware. Do yourself a big favour and use JyersUI. - Have not used the sensor on a stand alone printer without OctoPrint. Should be fine... let me know please. - My sensor had very high rolling resistance i.e., really held on to the filament: opened it up to find the the two washers on the fixed bearing were mounted the wrong way impinging on the fixed bearing so it didn't rotate at all. Washers are slightly cupped because they are stamped out of sheet steel. If you look very carefully you'll find one side has a slightly rounder outside edge, while the opposite one is sharp. Install the washers so the sharp edges face *away* from the bearing. ##Final Thoughts## <body>Have used all four versions over the last couple of months and have settled on the TOP SQUARE SHORT version. Even though the filament feeds into the extruder at a more acute angle, I have observed no negative effect on filament or feed. It's unobtrusive and there is lots of room to see what's going on and wrestle the filament. Can also set a longer runout distance.</body> <body>Happy, safe, printing!</body> <hr /> <body> Check out more printer accessories from <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/department_nine/designs/" title="D9"> Department_Nine</a>!</body> <hr />

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