BTT SKR V2 Case/Mount for Prusa and Bear Frame (V2.0)

BTT SKR V2 Case/Mount for Prusa and Bear Frame (V2.0)

prusaprinters

<p><strong>Purpose</strong></p><p>Allows mounting of a <a href="https://www.biqu.equipment/products/bigtreetech-skr-2">BIGTREETECH SKR 2</a> onto a Prusa style stock frame or mounting onto the <a href="https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade">Bear upgrade</a> using the included base mounts.</p><p><strong>Design</strong></p><p>Remixed from: <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723441">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4723441</a><br>Changed clamps, clamping method modified, size of hotend wire hole, hole mounting for frame and changed from regular nut for closing the lid to a M3nS type nut.</p><p>Design was modified in Fusion 360. Included is a STEP file including a model of the motherboard if you would like to make further modifications.</p><p><strong>Features</strong></p><ul><li>Compatible with BTT SKR V2.0.</li><li>Compatible and tested with Prusa/Bear Frames.</li><li>Includes all cut-outs necessary for using the unit with no Wi-Fi module. (USB, USB VD, SD).</li><li>Prusa-style mounting onto stock frame with rotation and clips. Hole is on back of base to allow tightening of top screw.</li><li>Includes Prusa-style hinges for easy access of opening door.</li><li>Includes Prusa-style clamps for heatbed and hotend wires.&nbsp;</li><li>Includes Bear-style base mounts for mounting onto frame.</li><li>Cut-out for X axis cable.</li><li>Bottom is open.</li></ul><p><strong>Changes since V1</strong></p><ul><li>Number of vents increased on door and base.</li><li>Prusa-like first layer time saving methods introduced on door and base.</li><li><a href="https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade">Bear </a>compatible! (please read requirements for printed parts).</li><li>Mounting onto stock frame brought into line with how Prusa does it.</li><li>No more supports required for printing.</li><li>Captive nut holes on the base side of the bed clamp have been improved.</li><li>Screw to hold door closed now sits flush with the door.</li><li>Captive M3nS nut to hold door closed has had it's hole shrunk to prevent it from falling out during maintenance.</li><li>Bed clamp has been redesigned so screws have a flat mounting point.</li></ul><p><strong>Requirements</strong></p><ul><li><strong>Stock Frame:</strong><ul><li>3D Prints: Base, CableClamp_Bed, CableClamp_Extruder, Door, Hinge_Bottom, Hinge_Top</li><li>x4 M3n Nuts</li><li>x5 M3nS Nuts</li><li>x8 M3x10 Bolts</li><li>x1 M3x20 Bolt</li></ul></li><li><strong>Bear Frame:</strong><ul><li>3D Prints: Base, CableClamp_Bed, CableClamp_Extruder, Door, Bear_Base_Mount_Lower, Bear_Base_Mount_Upper (Plus rambo_hinge_lower, rambo_hinge_upper from official bear project found <a href="https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade/tree/master/printed_parts/mk3_mk3s/stl">here</a>)</li><li>x4 M3n Nuts</li><li>x5 M3nS Nuts</li><li>x2 M3x10 Bolts</li><li>x2 M3x14 Bolts</li><li>x1 M3x20 Bolt</li></ul></li></ul><p><strong>Recommended Print Settings</strong></p><ul><li>Use PETG or other high temp filament.</li><li>Use 0.2mm SPEED preset in PrusaSlicer.</li></ul><p><strong>Important Notes</strong></p><p>From my testing a fan to cool the electronics was not required. I have large heatsinks on my TMC2209s and I run the motors at a low current. Please note, I have no idea how well it may preform long term in an enclosure without a fan, so please use here at own risk. I also have a small heatsink on the ARM Processor, not necessary, but I find it helps it keep that much cooler over longer prints.</p>

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