BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo Enclosure for CR-10S Standalone Mod

thingiverse

BTT SKR 1.4 Turbo enclosure for CR-10S 2040 aluminum extrusion when modded to standalone/direct drive requires moving Z motors and leadscrews to the front of the frame. Using TMC 2130 or 2209 drivers is highly recommended since these modules do not require active cooling (fan) but only passive heat sinks on top of them. UPDATE: 12/31/2020 - Fusion 360 files added UPDATE: 07/03/2020 - The extruder connector has been moved to the opposite side to make room for a 30mm fan (future version) for the stepper drivers. Vents have also been added on top of steppers. UPDATE: 07/02/2020 - The overall height was adjusted to accommodate bed connector wires hitting bed terminals and extruder connector was moved to the side since wires were hitting LCD flat cables. The connector takes place of the second extruder (E1) TMC driver not used. A V-slot guide has been added on the lid, a stylish chamfer between enclosure and lid, and redesigned break-out wifi port with thinner walls. RELEASE DATE: 07/01/2020 Features: - Original CR-10S aviation connectors for rollback compatibility. - No extra case is needed for the stock BED MOSFET as the BTT SKR board does not require an external MOSFET for the heated bed. It heats up faster than the stock one (tested today). - Wi-Fi module break-out port in case you do not have it installed on the BTT TFT screen. - All M3 fastener and nut slots are designed to be printed without supports. The comm ports are short enough for perfect bridging. - Aviation connector nuts self-locking system: place the connector into the slot, tighten the nut until it touches the inner face, and the enclosure lid will keep it locked when fastened in place. - Opening for extruder and prove cables not part of the original 8-pin connector. A 5V probe is recommended since it does not need an optocoupler and can be connected directly on the board. Hardware: - 4x M3x20 Hex Socket head fasteners (lid) - 4x M3 Square nuts (5.5x1.8) (lid) - 4x M3x8 hex button head fasteners (board) - 4x M3 Nuts (board) - 2x M5x8 hex button head fasteners (2040 assembly) - 2x M5 T-nuts (2040 assembly) Assembly: - Use a longer fastener to pull the M3 nuts into the slots. - Insert square nuts into their slots, ensuring they are aligned with holes and hand tightening a screw. - Install the enclosure onto the 2040 aluminum extrusion using M5 bolts and T-nuts. The distance from the bottom extrusion depends on how long your cables are; 50-60mm should be enough. - Align the board with comm port openings and use M3x8 fasteners to secure it in place. - Connect all wires accordingly. - Finger tighten aviation connectors until secured in place, following the orientation of the nut slot. Make sure not overtightened, otherwise, the lid will not slide in. - Install the lid, ensuring it aligns from top to bottom. - Fasten all 4 M3x20 bolts in slots. - Finish finger tightening connectors (less than a 1/4 turn). You can also connect matching ones for more grip. If you like it, please give it a thumbs up, share your print, and consider buying me a coffee.