Bondtech LGX FF Artillery Genius X1 mount

thingiverse

Bondtech LGX-FF for Flexibles mount for Artillery Genius. A heavy remix of https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4746610 Good stuff: -Super compact, but still has good stepper cooling. -Uses existing Volcano hotend, Slice heatbreak (Using the longer Volcano heatblock meant the PCB only needed slight modification). -Nozzle in same position as stock Artillery extruder: no lost build area -Nozzle view completely unobstructed -BLtouch offset X0.8, Y33 can probe almost the whole buildplate -PCB cover with ribbon cable strain relief, removable without unplugging cable -Ribbon cable socket retains its original alignment, moves to the right only about 10mm. -Easily removable cooling fan and duct for access to LGX front plate -6mm teflon dry tube guide Slightly annoying stuff: -Requires PCB and wiring modification -Requires a new countersunk hole drilled in alloy backplate -Requires various M3 screws and M3 threaded inserts. -Cooling duct hasn't been flowbenched: it works fine for PETG in an enclosure. -Needs good supports to be printed well. (test piece included) Modifications/before printing: Delete the teflon dry tube inlet if you don't need it. Check the BLtouch mounting height: mine is an off-brand 3D-touch which sits lower than a genuine BLtouch. Get your supports working right first. I used Cura, couldn't get Prusaslicer supports to work cleanly. Support test piece included: if you can print that piece and remove the supports cleanly, you can print the cover and duct successfully. Printing: My settings: eSun PETG @245C. 0.4 nozzle, 0.45 line width, 0.25 layer height. 8 walls, 10 top/bottom layers, 25% Gyroid infill. My support settings: 60degree, Zig-zag, 12% main support density. Interface: 25% density, 2.5mm thickness, 0.5mm Z distance/gap. Print orientation as pictured. Assembly: I used 4 M3x5mm brass threaded inserts, installed with a soldering iron, for the BLtouch, fan duct, and 2x PCB cover holes. Drill the alloy backplate to take a countersunk screw, so the mount ends up clamped between the extruder and backplate. **You must use a countersunk screw or it will rub on the ribbon cable, eventually shorting it out** Install the BLtouch first and route the wires behind the mount. Run the cooling fan wires above the extruder, in front of the tension lever (gives enough spare wire to remove the fan duct without unplugging) PCB modifications (YMMV): Ignore the DC-DC converter board (green), that just powers the Noctua hotend fan. Move Heater, Thermistor, and Fan2 sockets down as far as they'll go. I drilled new holes and wire wrapped the pins, then soldered on extension wires. I replaced Fan1 with a right angled socket. Flip the stepper socket onto the other side of the board. Replace the 90-degree BLtouch header with a straight header, also on the back side of the board. The worst thing about fitting a shiny new extruder is having to use the old extruder to print the parts!