Bolt-On Bowden Mount For a Stock Monoprice Maker Select V2.1, Wanhao Duplicator i3

thingiverse

Update 1-11-17 - Push fittings are adding slop, use compression style fittings instead. Don't over compress as it will tighten the tubing around the filament. Update 3-12-17 - I originally designed the extruder mount as an open design. It's been pretty cool for me to watch the filament feed and easy to clean stringies without dismantling the whole thing. I used a pair of mini needle nose pliers from Harbor Freight, but after changing rolls 10x in a day, I found this impractical. So good news! I added guide rails for quicker filament changes! Your 3D printer does so much for you! Do it a favor and take a little weight off its shoulders! I introduce to you, a bolt-on Bowden system I built for my completely (as of now) stock Monoprice Maker Select V2.1 (and this will inherently work for the Wanhao Duplicator I3). Get rid of that moving mass, lessen your vibration, increase your quality and print faster! Parts and Instructions are below. Parts List is pretty simple: Bolts: - M3-0.5x8mm (x2 to attach the motor mount to the Z-frame) - M3-0.5x10mm (x2 to mount the motor to the motor mount) - The original motor mount bolts can be used, mine were 37mm long and I bought 40mm ones which is what you should use if you want to be safe. You can also use a 45mm length with room for a nyloc. I got all the nuts and bolts by walking into Home Depot and getting them from their small bolts bin. Tubing: - Use pretty much whatever tubing you want, but seems like the 3D community uses 1/8" PTFE. I didn't have any laying around or wanted to wait for shipping, so I used 5/32" O.D. Synflex tubing which works great!! - The mount holes are designed to accept 1/8" NPT fittings. - Whatever tubing you decide to use, make sure they have 1/8" pipe threads. - I'm currently using 24" of tubing and 28 might be ideal. You might have Googled by now and asked yourself how do I get my hands on some Synflex without buying a 500' roll? Call or walk into any number of your local heavy duty diesel repair dealerships/repair shops (Freightliner/Kenworth/Volvo/Peterbuilt). You can buy it by the foot and some shops have multiple colors. They should have both tubing and fittings, make sure you get push fittings. Assembly is a little more complicated but simple: - Use the corner of a razor blade and taper the inside of one side (like a funnel) and insert that side into the motor mount and the other side into the extruder mount. - Calibrate! Raise your extruder slowly to the top, verify your clearance and you can print the full 180mm. If your bed is leveled on the high end of the z-stop, you will loose clearance. Pictures explaining the install are found here: https://www.facebook.com/ModifiedDesigns3D/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1878180105751362 Print Settings: - Rafts: Doesn't Matter - Supports: No - Resolution: Any - Infill: Atleast 25% - Notes: Best to print in ABS or other high temp plastics. (I have been using PLA without problems so far)