Blue Snowball/Snowball iCE Shock Mount

thingiverse

Update 08/02/2019 *The print I made of this has held up to testing incredibly well, and is now mounted on a twenty-dollar boom arm that I picked up from Amazon -- BUT, I wanted to let you know I'm working on a higher-resolution version of this. If you tried to print it, you may have noticed that the rings aren't perfectly round; that's because I designed this on TinkerCAD and the default 'cylinder primitive' has a maximum resolution of thirty-two to sixty-four divisions, I think. I was able to find and modify a script to increase those divisions to two hundred fifty-six to five hundred twelve which should hopefully completely remove the visible lines on the rings. Will keep you posted* Foreword After looking through various other Shock Mounts for the **Blue Snowball** and **Blue Snowball iCE**, I decided to make one from scratch. Key differences from other mounts was the use of through-hole bolt-in mounts, a cord-clip, and precise thread printing for the five-eighths-twenty-seven Microphone mount on the Blue Snowball and Blue Snowball iCE's OEM Stand. What you Need For this Mount * Blue Snowball or Snowball iCE Microphone * Blue Snowball or Snowball iCE Microphone stand * Two (2) Prints of the Outer Rings * Two (2) Prints of the Inner Rings * One (1) Print of the Base Mount w/ Clip (See Notes) * One (1) Print of the Mic Mount (See Notes) * Eight (8) Elastic Hair Ties * One (1) m3-0.5 x 20mm Socket Cap Screw * Two (2) m3-0.5 x 16mm Socket Cap Screws * Three (3) m3-0.5 Nylon Lock Nuts * Five (5) M3 Washers * Gorilla Glue (for joining inner and outer ring) Recommended Materials ABS Filament Tough PLA* *I don't really recommend printing this in PLA. In testing, PLA sheared pretty easily under forceful 'shock testing' of the mount, particularly around the mic mount screw. If you do use PLA or Tough PLA, I highly recommend **Annealing**. Mic Mount Printing Note Use a program like Cura 4.1 or similar to place *Support-blocks around the thread* of the Mic Mount part. This is the only part that needs to be printed with supports. I recommend twenty-five percent density Supports that **DO NOT** touch the five-eighths-twenty-seven Thread, or it will not be usable. *If you find the thread feels a little 'too' loose, allowing the mic to turn freely under the tension of the cable, or similar, you can add some blue thread-locker. I left it able to 'spin' a bit to reposition the mic if needed. If that becomes problematic, let me know and I can update with a tighter Mic Mount Screw.* Base Mount Printing Note The Base mount will be a tight fit on the OEM Stand, that was intentional. Since you're screwing ABS onto Metal, go slow to make sure the thread lines up properly. The M3 inner anchor nut will be a tight fit too. Thread one of the smaller m3-0.5x16mm bolts in to 'sink it' into the plastic, once it's in there, it's ready to go. **I don't recommend trying to tap it in with a hammer.** Let me know if you have any questions!