Blake's 7 Liberator Teleport Bracelet

prusaprinters

version 2 of my Liberator Teleport bracelet from the old BBC show Blake's 7 <h3>Print instructions</h3>Blake's 7 Liberator Teleport Bracelet After posting the Liberator Wand files recently I was asked to model up the Teleport Bracelet from the show. As I had already made several a few years ago using the original parts I got the calipers out and started on it in Blender. New V2 versionThe v1 was done like the originals on the tv show. However we now have spiffy new 3d printers so I thought lets make use of their capabilities. So I redid the catch design. The new catch is integrated into the band itself. I have also added a small recess and matching lip so the catch now snaps closed with a satisfying click. With the old one depending on how you glued the catch into place it could fit a bit loose making the bracelet come open while wearing it. The new V2 catch doesn't suffer from that. Not strictly accurate to the show but it's in an area you can't see. Modified the button area, the frame around the button used to be just raised, it's now a separate part to be printed. This makes it neater, at least for me as I suck at painting :) The 3d printed hinge has been modified too. It's slightly thicker and the screw holes have been re-positioned slightly to better match the metal versions available online. I have now printed several in Prusa's Mystic Brown filament. The colour match between the filament printed at 225 degrees and the one painted in Ford Roman Bronze is very good. I don't think they could have got a closer colour. Another good filament with a close colour match is Double Espresso Metal Brown HTPLA by ProtoPasta . The domed button was done in MKOEM Silk Silver also printed at 225 degrees. V2 - the button frame was also printed in MKOEM Silk Silver same as the domed button. Printing The Silver dome will need placing to the bed as when I exported it kept the model orientation. I suggest a maximum layer height of 0.15 or lower for the domed button. I used MKOEM Silk Silver for the silver parts. The best filament I have found so far to replicate the pink acrylic used on the original rectangular button is Fillamentum Pink Blush, a modified PETG. I printed mine 'upside down' with the bevel towards the bed in vase mode (5 bottom layers) using Prusa Slicer. This gives it a nice translucent look. The Silver button frame is also in MKOEM Silk Silver PLA. Both the pink button and button frame will also need placing flat to the bed like the dome due to the way Blender exports the parts. The left and right bands should be orientated ok as they are. They will need support under the bottom edge and under the catch area but it's not really needed for other areas. While there is a bit of overhang around the hinge recess and button recesses most printers should print them ok. I printed the test ones in 0.2mm layer height and they came out fine. v1 - There are 2 sets of bands, one blank set for you to put your own symbols on and one with a set of raised sigils that can be painted. The V2 is only in the blank version at the moment but if anyone wants a v2 with the raised sigils I can export one. The hinge is sized for a 20x17 hinge which are commonly available on ebay/amazon/banggood etc. For example these <a href="https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000360296604.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=a4649a94-53e1-4ca6-a0ec-642b4f510323&algo_expid=a4649a94-53e1-4ca6-a0ec-642b4f510323-18">https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000360296604.html?ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_0,searchweb201603_0,ppcSwitch_0&algo_pvid=a4649a94-53e1-4ca6-a0ec-642b4f510323&algo_expid=a4649a94-53e1-4ca6-a0ec-642b4f510323-18</a> I have included a printed version just in case you can't get one. Just print x2 as they are identical both sides. The hinge pin is sized for a 2mm pin. I used a cut down bicycle spoke but you can use an M2x20 screw as an alternative which also works well. It works with 1.75mm filament but it is a bit loose with that. The plastic hinges seem to be doing OK but I haven't had them long enough to know how they will do in the long term. Post Printing The originals were painted in a colour called Ford Roman Bronze. In the UK that colour is still available in rattle cans from Halfords. However if you use Prusament Mystic Brown I think you can avoid the painting as the colour is pretty close right off the printer. V1 - Glue the inner catch into the recess for it in the left band. I used a thick superglue, as it has better gapfill properties than a normal thin superglue. V2 has the catch integrated as part of the band itself. I figured if using support anyway then it makes little difference to the amount of support used and it makes the catch more durable being part of the band. V1 - Glue the rectangular pink button into its recess after painting that raised area silver. V2 has the silver frame around the button as a separate part that is printed out. So now you glue the silver frame into the recess in the bracelet and then glue the pink rectangular button to the recess in the frame. This gives a neater finish I think. Glue the silver Domed button into the circular recess. Secure the hinge in place using M2x5 screws (x 4). You might need to use small washers under the heads depending on the exact screw length. Alternatively you could glue the hinge in place but be careful not to glue the moving parts. If you are putting your own sigils in place I am informed (via the Eagle Transporter Forum) that the originals were painted in a flesh toned paint (airfix or humbrol). Most makers tend to use adhesive aluminium foil or self adhesive vinyl and cut them out and apply though which is what I did on my original version. There are also some other silver bands next to the sigils, these are also made from the silver foil/vinyl. The sigil version has these areas raised slightly and you can paint them silver. Please post any makes you do :)

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