Bibo Glass Clamp with Optional Lip

thingiverse

I broke one of my glass clamps recently, Bibo said they would send me another, but the boat is pretty slow at getting here. So I created a program to make them. One thing I found out is that the holes on the aluminum bed are not symmetrical, so settings on one side may not fit correctly on the other side. The default settings are what I used for mine, but most can be changed if you want the fit to be different. This script will create both left and right clamps at a time. I added a lip feature that holds the glass close to the bed so it won't lift for any reason. It seems to work really well - I didn't have to make any adjustments, but it helps prevent the glass from lifting when my Alum. bed warps down for some reason. This has been working great for me - my Alum. bed will warp down sometimes and the glass will start rocking. The lip helps a lot with that problem. Before I used to just bend the bed up again, which is how I broke the clamp in the first place. I would advise not to make the lip too big, or if you have a problem and restart the printer, your glass could break if the nozzles stick to the bed without heating them first. I printed mine out of PLA with 20% infill, top down with supports. I printed top down to make everything as accurate as possible - the support is only for the recess for the screw. After a couple of prints, I had to tighten everything up, but now they're holding tight after almost 100 prints. The clamp with the screw in shouldn't wiggle much if at all - if it does, you may need to adjust the Screw XY positions. If you're running the stock Bibo firmware, you probably won't have any other adjustments to make besides choosing whether or not to include a lip. You can also print the settings on top of the clamp - there are so many that I can barely read mine, but they're included in the STL file in case you need them later. You can also change the Version number on the back side so you can track which is which. Either or both can be disabled if you don't want them. I've included a NS (No Settings) version of the STL file that doesn't have any settings written on it, so it'll print a little cleaner.