Better Solar Swimming Pool Ionizer

thingiverse

8/11/20 - The filter height should be reduced to match the cage's height. This allows gas bubbles to escape, keeps the assembly upright in water, and minimizes rust on electrical connections. Salt was added to pool water to measure its effect on chlorine generation. Stay tuned for results. Also tested stainless bolts for their durability in water; they held up surprisingly well. Considering designing a solar-powered saltwater chlorine generator that simply drops into the skimmer. 8/7/20 - A shorter filter cage (#6) was added, allowing enough space for 1-1/2 inch length of pool noodle in cup. You'll need to increase the copper pipe length by about 1 inch to accommodate this change. This keeps the top of the cup and electrical connections out of water, reducing rust. 7/26/20 - After a week, the new design traps and controls oxidization better than before. It's now easier to clean; just unscrew tops, drop filter, filter cage, floats, and anode into bucket of water, rinse briefly, and reassemble. Probably switching to stainless hose clamps and increasing pool noodle sections to 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inch to raise electrical connections out of water and minimize rust. This is a better version of my first pool ionizer. It distributes copper ions into the water to kill algae, which I've used for about a month. AZ summers require a lot of chlorine to keep pools looking good; I've reduced my chlorine usage from 4 gallons per week to less than one. The water looks great. Four years ago, we dropped pool service and removed a rented failing salt system. An unexpected benefit of the ionizer is that it electrolyzes salt back into chlorine, as shown by test strips despite adding only 1 gallon over a 3-week period. So, I think this system works in two ways. This version has a filter to contain copper oxide flakes that form during operation and a screw top for easy assembly and cleaning. You'll need a cheap solar panel; mine was $30 from Harbor Freight. It's over-powered; I could have used the $15 1.5 watt version. You'll also need 1/2 inch copper pipe, hose clamps (Ace, Home Depot, Lowes), foam pool noodle, fine mesh aquarium filter bags (PetSmart, Amazon), and zip ties (5mm). The whole thing should cost around $30. Print two of each part, cut two 3-inch pieces of copper pipe (cut extras for replacement when the anode disintegrates). Assemble as shown in pictures; hook up solar panel. Hose clamps connect panel to electrodes, keeping them from slipping out of unit. The spacer bars are supposed to add electrical resistance to control electrolysis rate and increase ion absorption by lengthening their path through water. The unit works a bit too well, so I drop it in for 1/2 day every other day. May eventually add micro-controller or 555 to leave the unit in pool for weeks; alternatively, look for less ablative anode for chlorine generation only.