Beat Saber Trophy

prusaprinters

This is a figure from the game Beat Saber with glowing red and blue sabers, made as a christmas gift for my wife (who is a big fan of the game of course). The figure is actually her in game character, and originally I wrote her nickname on the model, but the files I posted here contain the text1 st.. I also shared the Fusion 360 design so you can open it and customize the model as you like. I designed a custom battery holder from 'scrap' I found at home like a prototyping PCB and old computer mouse parts, etc... you can use any kind of battery holder but you need to adjust the design to fit it properly. The glowing effect is achieved by using a tiny SMD red and blue LEDs. Read on for detailed instructions. Print Settings Printer Brand: Anycubic Printer: All-metal Mega Rafts: No Supports: Yes Resolution: 0.1 Infill: 25% Filament: Filamentum PLA Mixed Notes: Parts requiring supports: base, hoodie, head, hand and hair. Most parts print without any problems. Some of the models are not flat with the build plate, please align them yourself in your slicer software. I only included one 'hand' model, you need to print a mirrored version of it too, I used the slicer software to mirror the mesh manually. You need to print the 'handle' and 'blade' models twice of course. I printed the head upside down (with the hole facing up) to get nicer 'bottom' side, since the top of the head will not be visible anyway. The blades are printed with one side on the bed with transparent filament. To achieve the best effect, use a large nozzle with large layer height and line width. The hair is the most difficult to print. If you want a nice surface you need to print it in the orientation as it is designed, but that requires a lot of supports. It also hase some very thin parts nearly impossible to print, therefore I included an optimized version of it where I thickened those parts with blender. There is another trick I used to avoid almost all supports, I splitted the hair in two parts and printed them separately (see the screenshot among project files). Final result (my customized version) This is how my version of this project looks like: Schematic The schematic is very simple, a battery, a switch, two leds and a current limiting resistor for each one. I used 3V power (two AAA batteries) and two 220 Ohm resistors. You may adjust the circuit to your power selection. Battery holder I improvised a battery holder from things I found home. This includes a prototyping board, metal contacts from an old computer mouse similar to these ones. You can use any battery type and/or holder but you need to adjust the design to your specific needs. I used the protoboard to connect every part of the circuit together according to the schematic posted above. You need to score and break the protoboard to have a size of 9x19 hole piece left. Assembly Once all the prints are done, you can start assembling. There are a couple of things you'll need: A thick wire that serves as a 'skeleton' of the model holding all parts together and in place. I used the core copper wire of a coaxial cable with a diameter of around 1mm. very thin enameled copper wire to deliver power to the LEDs. I used wires with blue and red coating but to be honest it's almost not noticable, so you can use any color you like. A blue and a red LED, I used 0603 SMD LEDs. 2 pcs. of M3 nuts and bolts Start by painting the handle pieces to red and blue, if you printed them in a different color like I did. I used acrylic paint borrowed from my wife's nail painting kit :) If you've printed all the overlays, you can glue them onto the base now. I used epoxy glue to do this, as it provides some time to align them properly. Next cut a sufficient length of thin wires and solder them to the LED. Route the wires through the top opening of the printed 'handle' piece. There is a 'bridge' printed inside of the handle. Route the two wires one on each side of this bridge through. Use a pair of tweezers to pull out the wires through the side hole of the handle. Pull both the wires carefully until the LED sits tight on the little plastic bridge inside of the handle piece. Next you can route the wires through the corresponding 'hand' part and use your choice of glue to fix the handle to the hand. Repeat this process with the orher hand of course. Now cut a sufficient length of thick copper wire that can be bent to lead from the hand through the hoodie and the base. You should cut a little bit longer than you need because you can cut to the final length later. You need two pieces of such length. Now for both sides do the following: solder both thin wires to one end of the thick wire. This will be a temporary joint just to help guiding the wires through the hoodie. Make sure that the joint is not too large to fit through. Use a pair of pliers to push the wires through the hoodie. As the thick wire bends not so easy, you may need to apply a bit of force. Make sure not to grab the thin wires with the pliers to avoid scratching their coating off and causing a short circuit later. After both sides are done, you can strip off the temporary solder joint and guide all the wires into the base. This is the time you need to bend/pull all the wires and align the parts according to the final look you would like to have. You can now cut the thick wires to have enough length to bend the ends inside the base at a 90 degrees angle and they fit inside the circular cutout properly. Now you can use epoxy glue to fill this circular cutout. As the epoxy hardends it will hold the wires to the base firmly. Solder all the parts to the protoboard. I used this switch but you can use any other, adjusting the design of the base of course. Use thin wires to connect the switch to the protoboard. You can continue to cut the thin wires to their final length and solder them to the protoboard. Make sure you consider the polarity of the LEDs. Now place the switch and the protoboard inside of the base to their final position. Push the part named 'insert' into the base until the tabs on it are clicking into position. This part keeps the protoboard in place. Now you can put the batteries in and test the circuit. You can glue the M3 nuts into the base, put the lid on and screw in the M3 nuts completing the base. Next you can glue the head, eyes and hair(s) together. I had trouble to fit the head properly into the hair, so I used hot air to soften the hair just a little bit to be able to push the head into it. Then cut some thick wire again to attach the head to the hoodie. I used some more epoxy glue to secure the head, hoodie and both hands to the thick copper wire. As the final step, sand down the blades a bit to get a matte finish and glue them inside the handles. Using a different figure from the game You can use another figure from the game if you want. I used AssetStudio to extract 3D models from the game files. These models are low-poly of course, so you need to smooth them if you want the same look as they have in-game. I used Blender for this. Simply open the models and apply a subsurf modifier, maybe mark some edges as sharp and you're done. Next you can import the models to the CAD tool of your choices to make the necessary cutouts. I could not find the model for the 'head' so I made one in Blender. Category: Toy & Game Accessories