Bearing block for 8 mm shaft, 3 x 623zz bearings at 120 degrees

thingiverse

UPDATE 19.04.2017: I'm thrilled to announce VERSION 2 (RED PICTURES). Improvements: 1/ The back side of bearing block is now a tiny bit smaller. This ensures the carriage no longer touches the Prusa frame when lifted up to the very top, making your printing height limit dependent on the nut on the leading screw. 2/ Multiple versions are available to avoid play, with key sizes ranging from 8.50 mm to 9.00 mm. The ideal distance between the center of the X-rod and the bearing is 9.00 mm, but other versions offer a tighter fit. 3/ You can mount the bearing block one or two bearings up or down without affecting performance. 4/ I'm proud to introduce the compact Sunhokey X-carriage for Chinese E3D V5 clones, available on Thingiverse at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2259774. INITIAL DESCRIPTION (YELLOW PICTURES): The main challenge was to solve the shaking X-carriage issue, as seen in this video: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/sunhokey-3d-printer-owners/topic:5107. I also aimed to make the X-carriage run faster and smoother with less resistance. My first idea came from tahustvedt's design, featuring 623zz bearings (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1149490). However, he reported that the bearing block developed play, suggesting a "non-ring" design was to blame. I proposed a "full ring" or "full square" design instead, but it wouldn't fit due to belt interference. The second idea came from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:724999, where bearings are mounted at a 120-degree angle to save space and accommodate the "full-circle design". As a result, I designed a bearing block with three 623zz bearings (10 mm outer diameter, 3 mm inner diameter, and 4 mm width), which are very affordable. Three M3x16 screws will be required. The entire setup doesn't touch belts, allowing you to use stock M4 screws for mounting. Location: You can mount the bearing block using two blocks instead of one LM8UU. To make it more stable, orient the blocks with bearings facing outside. The wider you place them, the more stable your carriage will be. Initially, attach it using stock holes for M4 screws. When creating your own X-carriage, you can place the blocks as wide as desired. IMPORTANT: Installation is straightforward: simply unscrew one M3 screw on the left side of your printer, remove a plastic part, and pull out half of the shaft. Next, remove the LM8UU bearing and install the block. The sequence of pictures demonstrates how to do it. P.S. This is my first CAD experience; I'm open to feedback and improvements. P.P.S. For Y-axis (table) enthusiasts, a similar design is available at http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1438544. Print Settings Printer Brand: RepRap Printer: Prusa i3 Sunhokey Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 30%