BazBot
thingiverse
UPDATE: I'm wrapping up all the V2 parts.\nHere's a sneak peek: https://youtu.be/cm84q_E7kEI\nStay Tuned!\n\n \n \n Instructions\nCheck out the BOM file for an in-depth list of parts and sources. You should print all plastic components in ABS (as solidly and densely as reasonably achievable) to keep their strength when they come into contact with other warm parts. I recommend using 5 perimeters and 35% infill, which makes the components very rigid. \nI'm utilizing CF effector rods and magnetic ball joints. The goal was to use a 1/2" ball end mill on the alloy shoulder screws to create a spherical socket. These shoulder screws will be epoxied into the CF tubing. Then, PTFE tape would go into this socket for the magnetic sphere to ride on. The plastic parts where the magnets attach have cavities on the other side to provide a good area for some JB weld to help hold those magnets in place. You should rough up the magnetic spheres just where the epoxy is going to touch them, giving it a really strong adherent surface.\nEach diagonal carbon tube is 360mm long - this length is JUST the carbon tube measurement, not overall length including bolts on both ends. The shoulder screws add extra length, obviously. \nThe effector is designed for use with a J-head (V5). Most other designs mount the hotend right on the bottom, losing valuable Z travel space. This design PRESERVES all that lost spacing and gives you extra room to work. I have printed the effector plate with minimum support and it turned out PERFECT. Also, this design allows for a fan to be blowing continuously across the thermal pinch area and keep the cold side of the hotend cool. The ducting extends PAST the hotend, making sure there is plenty of turbulence in this region, cooling it down better than most other designs I've seen. Metal tape can seal off the hotend after installation, preventing any air from reaching your extruded filament (especially helpful when printing ABS or some nylons) and insulating everything above the hot part of the hotend. I've tested this with a cheapo 12V 20mm fan and it moves quite a bit of air. It would be hard to find a better design.\nI'm still working on another piece that will mount to the effector plate, which can toggle a separate fan directly cooling your extruded plastic (PLA). \nThe carriage effector part is designed with open-loop belt in mind. The ends wrap around the posts and engage their own teeth, locking it in place automatically. \nI was planning on using the Airtripper Bowden extruder (BSP edition), which you can find on Thingiverse. \nThe J-head fits into the groove on the effector with some friction, then bolts securely to that using its cap bolts. This allows you to use a standard j-head and convert it to bowden configuration by screwing in a BSP fitting into the cap. The cap provides additional grip. \nThe flange bearings should be installed in pairs, facing each other. Then, long M6 bolts will bolt through the top corner piece, through the flange bearings, and into a t-nut in the aluminum extrusion. This makes for a very robust mounting system. \nI'm still experimenting with the best placement for the endstops.
With this file you will be able to print BazBot with your 3D printer. Click on the button and save the file on your computer to work, edit or customize your design. You can also find more 3D designs for printers on BazBot.