Battleship Game with Storage Case: English & Cyrillic

Battleship Game with Storage Case: English & Cyrillic

prusaprinters

<p>I hope you enjoy playing this version of the classic naval battle game as much as I did, both as a child myself, and later as a father with my own kids. It is one of the few board games you can easily play over Zoom, etc.</p><p>This is a remix of <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:472705">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:472705</a></p><h3>Things I changed from the original:</h3><ul><li>More &amp; better (stronger) hinges</li><li>Pins no longer inserted head-first into top</li><li>Ships designed to be easily recognizable, but not duplicates of the MB Game</li><li>Pins printed in groups of 10 or 40</li><li>Version with a separate “sea” so it can be printed in a different color</li><li>Added a Cyrillic version</li><li>Added a version with a clasp to keep the game case closed (English &amp; Cyrillic)</li></ul><h4>&nbsp;</h4><h4><strong>Update: 09-14-2022</strong><br>&nbsp;</h4><p>Added an image to demonstrate how to cut-down parts for testing when resizing the game. This allows you to print only what you need to test the parts at the size you desire, saving a lot of time and filament. Also added a STL with all the test parts on a single build plate and a zip of the individual parts.<br>&nbsp;</p><h3>Update: 06-07-2022</h3><p>Added versions with a clasp to keep the game case closed. The new versions will still fit the storage case so it can be used to keep everything together. There are versions with both English &amp; Cyrillic lettering.&nbsp;</p><p>NOTE: I know some languages use different versions of the Cyrillic alphabet, so I used Cyrillic letters that most appear to have in common. For reference I used: <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyrillic_alphabets">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyrillic_alphabets</a></p><h3>Update: 01-25-2022</h3><p>Replaced the STL for the carrier, to fix the problem with it not fitting up against the edges, or in the corners.</p><p>Please let me know if you find any other issues!</p><h3>Update: 10-05-2021</h3><p>Added a simple slip-in storage case that allows you to keep the game cases closed with all the parts inside, and store them upright to take up less space. I did not make the storage case form fitting, because I was wary of scratching up the game. But you can play around with the dimensions for a tighter fit if you prefer that.</p><h3>Update: 08-14-2021</h3><p>Added the STLs for the version with an insert for the "sea" so you can print it in a different color.</p><h3>Update: 08-02-2021</h3><p>cbnsti pointed out that the hinges on the case top were too fragile, and kept breaking. I did not originally have this problem with the Inland Blue PLA I was using, but did experience it with some Overture Gold Silk PLA. I used the same settings for both, so I have to assume this has something to do with the filament itself. It could be the formulation, dampness, additives, or something else.</p><p>I was able to change the settings for the case top to 45% infill, using the Tri-Hexagon infill pattern (Cura), and this produced much stronger hinges in the Overture Gold Silk PLA that did not break when inserting the hinge pins.</p><p>When I get the time, I will look at redesigning the hinges. Until then, if you experience the same problem, try my adjusted settings.</p><p><i><strong>NOTE</strong>: I have since found that many of the “metallic", ”silk", or “PLA - Light” filaments will foam to some extent as they are extruded from the nozzle. This is what causes the weakness in the hinges when using these filaments. If you encounter this, try using the settings I mentioned above.</i></p><h3>Update: 07-18-2021</h3><p>Inspired by freemindox's make, (on Thingiverse) and a special request from my grandson, I am working on a version where the case bottom will accept a separate "sea" insert. That way you can decide if you want to print it in a different color from the case.</p><h3>Updated 06-25-2021</h3><ul><li>Fixed the STL for the Case Bottom</li><li>Added hinge pins and hit/miss pins without brims</li></ul><h3>&nbsp;</h3><h3>Printing Instructions:</h3><p><br><strong>BOTTOM:</strong><br>Print with supports for the hinges. Tree supports (Cura) worked great</p><p><strong>TOP:</strong><br>Print without supports</p><p><strong>HINGE PINS:</strong><br>Print slowly, I used 25 mm/sec. Detach from the built-in brim (if used) before inserting. You need all 3.&nbsp;</p><p><strong>PINS:</strong><br>Print slowly, I used 25 mm/sec. I originally printed 50 white pins and 30 red pins for each case, but now think you should print 70 white pins and 40 red pins because some will get lost no matter how hard you try. I have included STLs for these pins both with and without built-in brims.</p><p><strong>SHIPS:</strong><br>Print with supports. Tree supports (Cura) worked great. The PT Boat, Destroyer &amp; Battleship may print with gaps in the side walls where the post holes are. This could be dependent on the quality you choose. I am working on fixing this, but it should not effect game play.</p><p>All parts needed a little cleanup, but a few moments with an Xacto knife and/or small hobby file should be all you need.</p><p>To make a complete set you will need the following:</p><p>(2) Case_Top</p><p>(2) Case_Bottom_Fixed</p><p>(6) Hinge_Pins</p><p>(2) PT_Boat</p><p>(2) Destroyer</p><p>(2) Submarine</p><p>(2) Battleship</p><p>(2) Carrier</p><p>(140) Pins [White]</p><p>(80) Pins [Red]</p><h3><br>Print Settings:</h3><p><br><strong>Printer:&nbsp;</strong><br>Creality CR-6 SE</p><p><strong>Rafts:</strong><br>No</p><p><strong>Supports:</strong><br>Yes</p><p><strong>Resolution:</strong><br>.2</p><p><strong>Infill:</strong><br>20% for PLA, PLA+ PETG<br>45% for PLA Lite, Silk or Metallic PLAs</p><p><strong>Filament:</strong>&nbsp;<br>Original Blue Version - Inland PLA, PLA+ in Blue, Grey, Red, White<br>Gold Version - Overture Silk Gold PLA, eSun Silk Silver PLA, Yousu Pearlescent Blue PLA</p>

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