Bambu Lab X1 LED Light frame

prusaprinters

This is the final set of files please let me know if you have any issues, Thanks!Note: I have added 8mm to the height of the pedestal, for a total of 20mm, that the AMS foot sits on to give more airflow to the underside of the AMS due to reports of the bottom of the AMS sagging from the heat of the printer itself not the added LED lights.This is meant to sit on top of the glass cover but spans the width of the printer and grips the edges so it is sturdy. Depending on if you use a switch or not and which side that switch is on makes a difference on which parts you print.UPDATED: 9/26/22 Upload the endPost A & B & endPost A switch & B switch pieces to increase the footprint for the AMS feet.With Switch:1-either EndPost_A_Switch.3mf or EndPost_B_Switch.3mf depending on if the switch is on the left (A) or right (B) side. This is for the rear corners.1-either EndPost_A.3mf or EndPost_B.3mf for the opposite side from the switch again depending on which side the switch is on.1-either EndPost_Clip_Switch_Left.3mf or EndPost_Clip_Switch_Right.3mf again depending on which side the switch is mounted on. This is the clip that ties the front and rear edges together and hugs the printer.1-either EndPost_Clip.3mf for the opposite side from the switch.1 -each of EndPost_A.3mf and EndPost_B.3mf for the front corners Without Switch:2 -each of EndPost_A.3mf and EndPost_B.3mf for the 4 corners2-EndPost_Clip.3mf. This is the clip that ties the front and rear edges together and hugs the printer. Note: The switch corner piece can be placed at any corner you choose, just figure out what parts you need where. As you are looking at the front of the printer the back left is an ‘A’ part and the back right is a ‘B’ part. Front right is the ‘A’ part and front left is a ‘B’ part. So clockwise from back left is “A”, ‘B’, ‘A’, ‘B’ Either way you also need:1-LightCenter_Square.3mf12-10mm flat head M3 bolts8-M3 locking nuts (regular nuts would also work but may loosen over time)4-M3 square nuts (EndPost_Clips)It is meant to use a 10mm 24V light strip (9mm should also work) and clips the light strip in place so not to rely on the adhesive. In fact I would leave the film on the adhesive so it doesn't stick while installing it. The LEDs do get pretty hot so print at least the center square with ABS or a filament that can take the heat. There are venting holes to help with that. Here is the LEDs that I used:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5HJ104/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1The switch I'm using allows for both powering the LEDs on and off but also allows for dimming the LEDs, works really good. Here is the switch:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B2J4T38X?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=124V negative --→ Switch BLACK wire.24V Positive --→ Switch RED wireLED Positive --→ Switch ORANGE wireLED negative --→ Switch Yellow wire.The RED and ORANGE wire are internally connected and the yellow is used to modulate the ground to control the duty cycle of the LEDs for dimming.For wiring check out this Youtube video, it covers everything but in it the LEDs are taped to the bottom of the AMS unit instead of being in a separate frame...and it uses different LEDs but it does address modifying the AMS cable to obtain 24V for the LEDs. I am using a separate 24V power supply.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLX-XcisJTk