Badger - 1/10 scale Front Wheel Drive RC Buggy

cults3d

Badger is a 3D printable front wheel drive RC buggy. High performance off road outdoor test run:https://youtu.be/JFGEpKMzQfM Test video of the prototype driving indoor on carpet this winter with cheap 27t brushed motor and ni-mh battery:https://youtu.be/Ur0n6PreKdg Brushless motor video on asphalt:https://youtu.be/4o21zEZyWyo Video showing how to remove and install the body:https://youtu.be/q91jytkKw70 Many places can use longer screws than specified if you don't have the perfect length. Sometimes slightly shorter can be used at your own discretion. To figure out the max length possible stick something thin into the hole nad check the depth. Holes for 3 mm pins can be tight, so run a 3mm drill through them if necessary. You can also put one fo the long pins (or other 3mm rod) in a drill and run it in the holes fast to loosen up the holes. The friction heat build up from the spinning drill will make the holes perfect for the pins. If I make them holes bigger then they will be loose on some printers. Now they are perfect sometimes and a bit tight other times. The drive train can be made with fully enclosed gears or with a more open belt drive. Check the PDF files for instructions on how to build each. The gears are weaker and noisier but are fully printable and fully enclosed for extremely dirty environments. The belt drive is more durable and much quieter and should not cause problems in dirt except for the filthiest of conditions. Yokomo Y2-500 ball diff for YD-2 can be used. Assemble the diff according to the Yokomo instructions and then use the photos I attached here as guides for the spacers and adapter ring. Glue the adapter ring in place with CA glue in four spots. It's unlikely that it will need replacing, but if it does then it can be removed with a heat gun and carefully heating until the PLA ring becomes soft and removeable. A special chassis and gearbox frame is available to fit Yokomo diffs directly with the 10x15x4 mm ball bearings. It's called Option-Yokomodiffchassisbelt01 and is not relevant to normal builders. FS racing part number 511687 steel gear dif can be used with the car by replacing the original bevel ring gear with part Steeldiff02-Geared.STL and adding the adapter rings inside the two 12x18x4mm ball bearings as shown in the photo of the FS Racing bag. There are two bumper versions, one large for beginners and one small for racing. The optional anti-roll bar can be made from 1,2-1,6 mm thick piano wire for example. Bend the wire approximately like the photo of the wire shows. It does not have to be exactly like that. The important part is that the ends are equally high on both sides and that it doesn't hit anything. Thicker wire will give more anti-roll compensation, off course. Antirollbar01.stl contains the balls and link for one side of the bar. Use an M2x16 or longer screw to secure the lower ball to the suspension arm. The 3D printable shocks are only recommended for temporary use. They will handle bumps and flat ground but jumping will probably not go well because they don't have any damping. An M3x12mm grub screw shoul dbe used in the hole in the shaft to lock the shock together. M3x12 or longer grub screws should also be used to install the shock balls to the shock mounting posts and tower. I highly recommend proper oil shocks for high energy impacts. When using a shorty lipo, Batterystrap01 is the right clip for holding the battery in place. The clip is easy to use for battery access. Use a foam block in front or behind the battery to adjust position and weight balance as required. To use a ni-mh stick battery make two BatteryStickholder01 and add to the sides of the chassis. Place BatteryStickholder02 in the battery tray under the ni-mh and then use Batterystrap02 over to hold the ni-mh battery in place. If the printed battery clips don't hold the battery securely enough a 20mm/3/4" velcro strap can be used in the slots in front of and behind the battery instead. Most parts can be printed from PLA. All chassis and suspension parts are designed to be strong when printed from PLA. Motormount01 should be printed from CPE or PETG with 100% infill to resist motor heat. Bumper and motor guard can be printed from CPE or PETG for extra flex, but PLA works fine. The gear/pulley layshafts and idler gears can benefit from being printed from CPE or PETG as they are small diameter and can heat up from the friction under speed. CPE is recommended as it warps less than PETG and is overall better. The diff bevel gears and outdrives hold up well when printed from PLA as they don't get hot. Body01, Body02 and Wing01 should preferably be printed from LW-PLA from Colorfabb to give the right flexibility and low weight, but PLA works ok too. Two perimeters and 0% infill is good. The printable spike tires can be printed from 95A TPU. They are not as good as real rubber tires but work great in grass and loose dirt.