Back to the Future Time circuit Delorean replica prop

thingiverse

The object consists of 8 pieces to print with a layer height of 0.2mm and a line width of 0.4mm: - Cap (print = 2h00, no supports). - Future Red module (print = 4h20, no supports). - Present Green module (print = 4h20, no supports). - Past Yellow module (print = 4h20, no supports). - Left Frame (print = 2h00, with support) - Right Frame (print = 2h00, with support) - 2 Reinforcement bars on the back (print=2h00, with support) PROGRAMMING: The Arduino code works very well. This is an exact replica of the movie clock. You can change the date in the future and past very easily. The present date synchronizes with your computer. The LED changes for AM/PM automatically. However, the programming is quite complex (bit by bit). I couldn't help you debug if you want to make any changes. INSCRIPTION ON THE FRONT SIDE: I searched for the most accurate typography. PDF available for printing. MATERIALS: - 9 X Alphanumeric Display 16 segments 25 x 16mm (3 reds, 3 greens, and 3 yellows). There are many manufacturers like Kingbrightusa.com. - 30 X Numeric Display 7 segments 19.05 X 12.7mm (10 R, 10 G, and 10 Y). - 3 X identical Printed Circuit Boards (PCB). - 3 X Adafruit 16x8 LED Matrix Driver Backpack - HT16K33 Breakout. - 1 X Arduino Nano or equivalent. - 1 X Breadboard-friendly SPDT Slide Switch. - 1 X Adafruit DS3231 Precision RTC Breakout if you want to display today's date. - 1 x USB Micro-B Breakout Board that will serve as a power switch because the Arduino nano is not designed to power 360 LEDs! - 8 X LED 3mm yellow - 4 X LED 3mm green - 12 X Through-Hole Resistors, 220 (for yellow) and 470(for green) ohm. - 12 X screw nut M3 - Silicone cover stranded-Core Wire - 30AWG or 28AWG in Various Colors. Too rigid wires (24 or 26AWG) are a problem for positioning the displays. PRINCIPLE: Check the datasheet of your displays, as the order of pins may vary depending on the manufacturer. Connect the letter of your segment (a, b, c etc ...) to the letter written on the PCB, just like in the example photo. For all displays: The DP pin is never used; you can delete it. For digital displays only: there are 2 out GND, but you only need one; you can delete the other. I printed a handy welding aid to check lengths and included images of my templates to help cut cables to the right length. (*) I made a PCB for easier manufacturing. To make it: - Go to JLCpcb.com. - Place the compressed file Gerber2.zip. - The basic options are sufficient; don't change anything. - Order 5 identical PCBs (you'll only need 3, but ...). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DiMKIziY6XQ&feature=youtu.be