AV wall mount break-out box with Keystone and Banana Jacks

thingiverse

I needed a solution to tame the chaos of cables that were bursting out of a wall like a sea monster. Previously they had been routed through a keystone panel with custom knockouts, which looked ugly and didn't do much to manage them. To get it under control I designed this box. It's a wall mount enclosure for six keystone modules, sixteen banana jacks, and features a cable pass-through on the bottom that can hold five thicker cables (intended for coax). There's also a hinged door with a latch that will keep the cover closed securely. The latch requires two springs of the type used in ballpoint pens to function properly. For extra security there are locations where M3 screws can be used to lock the door shut. I'm satisfied with how it turned out, as it's doing exactly what I wanted it to do. There was one issue with a keystone RJ11 jack that I tried to reuse on this project and it wouldn't fit into its designated opening. However, my new Cat5E keystones fit perfectly without any issues. The STEP file is available for easy remixing and modification. I used the Keystone Jack receiver model based on MWU's design from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:548145 I also utilized pyr0ball's remix of MWU's model (which converted MWU's model to STL) to help me design this enclosure. I selected banana jacks similar to these ones, which I purchased on Ebay: Update 8-18-2019 - I found that these look more like the ones I used. They have a tab for soldering wires to: https://smile.amazon.com/DCFun-Connectors-Amplifier-Terminal-Binding/dp/B06XS43NTZ I think these might be better since they don't use tabs (which is a weak point): https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HH3XNYY This project requires some M3 hardware: (5) M3 Nuts (5) M3x14mm screws (4) M3 brass inserts (these need to be 5mm or shorter) (2) M3x20mm (or longer) screws (12) female banana jacks similar to these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HH3XNYY I printed the lid in a tall orientation and used Cura's support blocker feature to block supports on the small ledges where the latch locks need to clip into place. There are blockers on each latch, as shown in the picture of one of them. I also used tree supports on the lid, which worked well. If I were to print this again, I would use support blockers on the cable management tie points too. Some of them weren't usable due to some support material blocking the holes. The tie points shouldn't need supports anyway. I used PLA that matched up with the wall color very well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H3IIBBQ I applied shrinkwrap insulation on the connections to the banana jacks since they are in close proximity. I would strongly recommend insulating these connections to the banana jacks as they can rotate in the housing (they're not loose, but with enough force they can rotate). If the banana jacks rotate in the housing, the terminals could be brought into contact with each other. I may go back and add some glue around the terminals on the inside of the box to hopefully ensure the jacks don't rotate. I recently found there's another type of banana jack connector which may work better that doesn't use a tab and instead the wire is soldered in coaxial with the connector: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HH3XNYY So, use this at your own risk, and feel free to remix it if you want. Parts are not oriented for printing.