Auto-rewind Sistema 5L Drybox

prusaprinters

<p>A compact, sub $10 dry-box that is easy to open, portable, and can be removed and capped off for longer storage, compatible with Vincent's Auto-rewind spool mechanism.</p> <h3>Print instructions</h3><p>I wasn't happy with the existing drybox offerings I ran into; the containers were either expensive, large, hard to find, or required me to reprint an entirely different spool rewind system (or not use one at all).</p> <p>Since I already had a set of Vincent G's autorewinders, I set out to find and assemble a ~$10 drybox with minimal additional printed parts. This is that drybox. It is only 13cm wide, so you can easily fit six on your second LACK table if you have a 3-Lack-stack, or under the bottom one if you only have 2.</p> <p>Don't hesitate to ask if you have questions or comments!</p> <p><h3>Parts required:</h3></p> <p><h5>Non-printed:</h5></p> <ul> <li> 608 bearings, two per box. (You can reuse the ones from your MMU2 spool holders.) [Free]</li> <li>PC4-M6 PTFE connector. I prefer the passthrough kind with a full 4mm bore. [&lt;$1 ea]</li> <li> One Sistema 1850 5L (21 cup) container. [~$8 on Amazon]</li> </ul> <h5>Printed:</h5> <ul> <li>One set of <a href="https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/168-universal-auto-rewind-spool-holder-mm">Vincent G's Auto-rewinder parts</a>, minus the axle, and minus the stand, </li> <li>One set of these parts</li> </ul> <h5>Other, not necessarily required:</h5> <ul> <li>Silicone to seal things</li> <li>Glue</li> <li>M3 nuts and screws</li> <li>Flat-head countersunk screws</li> <li>Dessicant of your choice</li> </ul><p><h3>Printing:</h3><br/> Print parts as to taste. They are pre-oriented in the 3MF to require no supports. The vertical side-mount has a built-in brim, don't forget to trim it off after printing. 20% infill should be more than sufficient.</p> <p><h3>Assembly:</h3></p> <ol> <li>Attach (Glue or M3 nuts and (short) screws, your choice) the two side mounts to the inside of the lid and bottom of the drybox. Note only one side can accept the "keyed" portion of the shaft. Use the nut holes to help you center them on the little nub that is left over from the molding process. If you drill holes, you can add some silicone between the container and the mount plate to retain air-tightness of the container.</li> <li>Drill a 14mm hole for the passthrough and insert it from the inside out. <li>Add sealant if desired, then thread on and tighten the retainer nut.</li> <li> Thread in the PC4-M6 fitting, optionally silicone the threads.</li> <li> Optional: Squeeze and smooth out out a 2mm layer of silicone on some old PET plastic. Let it cure, then peel off and cut out a circle to fit inside the cap's top. Tada! You can now detach your drybox and keep it sealed for longer-term storage!</li> <li>Optional: Screw the stand in place where you intend to mount your drybox, to keep it from sliding around. <li>Add your filament and some dessicant, attach PTFE, and enjoy!</li> </li></li></ol><p><h3>Changelog:</h3></p> <ol> <li>Feb 14, 2020: Initial upload</li> <li>Apr 12, 2020: Added M10 passthrough option STL</li> </ol>