Artillery Sidewinder X1 - Nut 6 Extruder Step Calibration Tool V3

prusaprinters

<p>Important:</p> <p>IN ORDER TO PRINT THE THREADS, YOUR PRINTER MUST BE CALIBRATED REALLY GOOD !!! Accept the challenge! ;) it is worth the effort, after that, your printer works dimensionally accurate.</p> <p>Just in case, one might think, that does not work.... ;) Taken from my ruler stop. <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNR58DfmLSM">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNR58DfmLSM</a></p> <p>My calibration sequence (sequence is impotant) is:</p> <p>-Take care, that your printer stands on level subsurface</p> <p>-Take care, that the ground/subsurface does not shake, while printing</p> <p>-Take care, that the printer is built and alligned exactly</p> <p>-PID tuning <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html">http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M303.html</a></p> <p>-optimally levelled bed, at least, first layer without elephant foot.</p> <p>-calibration of extruder steps and correction in firmware or start GCode</p> <p>-measurement of average filament diameter (edit in slicer).</p> <p>-calibration of extrusion multiplier (edit in slicer) <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796601">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796601</a></p> <p>-calibration of x/y steps and correction in firmware or start GCode <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766</a> <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html">http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html</a></p> <p>-calibration of z steps and correction in firmware or start GCode <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2484766</a> <a href="http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html">http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M092.html</a></p> <p>-Print a Temp Tower to find a suitable temperature for your Filament and edit your slicer <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2493504</a></p> <p>Second thing is.... The caliper must move smooth and easy.... Good time to clean is up and give it a soft lube with tool oil.</p> <p>Edit 2: It was a hassle to fiddle the screw into the clamp an hold everything in to the right position, so i made the clamp magnetic. I used 12 Neodymium Magnets 3mm x 3mm and 2 Magnets 10mm x 2mm. The magnetic clamp is symmetrically, print the one piece twice.</p> <p>Edit: Added 16mm and 18mm version, depending on you caliper, a rounded knob and a bracket with blind hole for M4 Nut.</p> <p>Tool to calibrate you E-Steps properly with a caliper.</p> <p>Mainly made for my Artillery Sidewinder X1, but should fit every 20XX V-Slot frame with "Nut 6".</p> <p>Made for max. 100mm extrusion.</p> <p>Filament between extruder an caliper must have tension before you begin. Ideal is, to clamp it together and extrude some mm for tensioning.</p> <p>Read the E-steps with M92</p> <p>Send: M92</p> <p>Recv: echo: M92 X80.29 Y80.37 Z399.64 E588.00</p> <p>Recv: ok</p> <p>Connect caliper, heat up the extruder, extrude for example 100mm of filament.</p> <p>Calculate the new E-Steps.</p> <p>(demanded lengh / real lengh )* actual steps = new steps.</p> <p>Write with M92 EXXX.XX</p> <p>Save with M500</p> <hr/> <p>You will need an M4 brass insert, soldering iron for the insert and an M4x15 bolt for the clamp that connects filament and caliper.</p> <p>You can use it, without changing Filament, in my case the spool was at it's end....</p> <p> <figure class="media"> <oembed url="https://youtu.be/nFTs8omnDNM"></oembed> </figure> </p> <h3>Print Settings</h3> <p><strong>Printer:</strong></p> <p>Artillery Sidewinder X1</p> <p class="detail-setting rafts"><strong>Rafts: </strong> <div><p>No</p></div> <p><strong>Supports:</strong></p> <p>Yes</p> <p class="detail-setting resolution"><strong>Resolution: </strong> <div><p>0.2</p></div> <p><strong>Infill:</strong></p> <p>15% Gyroid</p> <p><strong>Filament:</strong></p> NuNus PETG <p>Translucent Red</p> </p></p> Category: 3D Printer Accessories