Artemis Starship Bridge Simulator Control Panel V2 (Weapons)

thingiverse

This is my first V2.0 Control panel for Artemis, a fully immersive Starship Bridge Simulator. Right now it's only Weapons and might stay that way for a while, but I've shared it if you want to give it a try. If you're curious about Artemis: Starship Bridge Simulator, check out this link: https://artemisspaceshipbridge.com/ This control panel is fully 3D printed and designed to fit in my homemade consoles, so they might not be usable as-is. However, they could be a great starting point for making custom control panels if you're up for the challenge. **Edit:** I wanted to isolate the lighting around individual types of ordnance and tubes, but due to the design of the top plates, I was getting excessive light bleed over. I've modified the top plates to include a groove for inserting light breaks around the tubes and ordnance name. You can either print the light breaks separately in opaque material and insert them into the top panel or print the bottom with light breaks included, then print an insert in opaque material and put it into the top piece. Both options should work. Alternatively, if you don't care about isolating individual cells from light, you can simply print the version of the bottom that doesn't have light breaks. **Edit** The top and bottom pieces fit snugly into the control panel frame and are secured with M4 or 8-32 screws (either works fine). There's enough room for up to 2" of screw, but you'll only need about .5" of screw. The frame is designed so that the screw will create a thread, eliminating the need for nuts. I printed the control panel on my Ender 3 and CR10 using 0.2mm resolution in Inland Black and Clear PETG (LEDs can get hot, so you'll want something that won't melt). The settings were: 30mm/s speed, 7mm retraction, 1.2mm shell thickness on all sides, and combing mode turned on. The frame was printed with the face down on a glass bed using supports, which can leave the recess a bit rough but make the surface really smooth. I then glued the two sections of frame together with epoxy and coated the top surface of the frame with bed liner (I like the texture). The top panel was printed face-down without support using black PETG, and then I switched to clear after 3-4 layers of black. It usually takes at least three layers of black before it's opaque enough to block LED light. The words/numbers on the control panel are either raised or lowered from the surface by about .05", so you should have around 6-7 layers before you need to change to transparent.