Arcade Stick Case 3D print model

cgtrader

Arcade Stick Case These files outline a printable Arcade stick, 390mm x 230mm x 50mm in size, featuring Main panels that measure 360mm x 200mm. The included dwg format files comprise the top, bottom, and control panels, all meticulously measured to accommodate a Sanwa JLF. Pictures demonstrate a Seimitsu LS56 installed. Notably, top panel button holes are 30mm in diameter, while side panel buttons measure 24mm. A total of three sections within the control panel have been designed specifically for Brooks UFB/PS360+/Kaimana PCBs to be bolted on. Detailed information about these components is available at the following URLs: http://akishop-customs.com/PS360.html http://www.brookaccessory.com/detail/06960737/ https://paradisearcadeshop.com/kaimana-led-series/1629-jasen-s-kaimana-kameleon-led-driver-pcb.html The provided files also include printable mounts for the PCBs. The panels' dimensions, materials, and thicknesses are listed as follows: (Please note that these specifications pertain to the dwg files.) - TopPanel2DUpdatedWithCornerBolt: 1mm thick, made of acrylic - MiddlePanel2D: 3mm thick, constructed from acrylic - AluPanel2D: 3mm thick, comprised of aluminium - BottomPanel2D: 3mm thick, fabricated from acrylic Each panel has been meticulously lasercut to precise dimensions. To facilitate assembly, the stick sections are designed for separate printing within a build volume of 150mm x 150mm x 150mm or greater. Upon completion, these components fit together and are held in place by eight M4 threaded steel rods at the front and back sections. I opted for M5 threaded rods initially, but M4 is recommended due to enhanced assembly convenience. For additional support, four 200mm long M4 threaded rods and M4 Nuts provide further structural stability. On the left side, two dedicated sections are provided for DPDT slide switches. One such switch in the image is utilized to control the LED power supply. The front section necessitates a Neutrik pass-through; in my prototype, I used a locking RJ45 connector instead (Neutrik NE8FDP). Countersunk M4 bolts are advised for mounting the joystick, while the 60mm-long bolts that secure the corner pins in the pictures could also be used. Ergonomic Hi Fi Aluminium feet featuring an M4 thread can be purchased on Ebay. When printing my own stick, I chose PLA with a 35% honeycomb infill pattern. The high infill rate produced satisfactory results, albeit the heavier structure due to the aluminum control panel necessitated the use of about 1KG of PLA. To prevent overheating, testing demonstrated that any infil above 35% would make printing unwieldy. As you can see, this DIY stick functions effectively. Regrettably, the paint job leaves much room for improvement; I'm willing to offer more information as required. Be aware that using this model is done at your own risk. Please prioritize caution and best practices during the printing process to ensure safe handling of materials. Should there be sufficient interest in the instructions, I will compile a step-by-step guide. An excellent resource for enthusiasts interested in DIY arcade sticks is the SRK forums, home to many knowledgeable experts who generously share their expertise. The link to the SRK forum discussion group is: http://forums.shoryuken.com/categories/tech-talk