Anycubic Vyper simple Y-axis MGN15 rail modification

thingiverse

My plan was to equip the printer with linear bearings without a lot of effort. I payed less than 50.- Euro for all parts. In fact, the conversion should work without any modifications to the original Vyper hardware. Unfortunately, some material has to be removed from the blue front cover (see photo). My printer is running. The automatic leveling works and the first prints are done successfully. Let's see how fast printing is now possible. # BOM <B>Rails</B> 2x MGN15H 2x MGN15 Rail 350mm 1x CR-10 Series Ender-3 End Stop Limit Switch (see photo) <B>Rail Mount</B> 8x M3x12mm hex allen socket cap head self tapping screw 8x M5x12mm hex head screw 8x M5 V-slot nut <B>Hot Bed Mount</B> 8x M3x12mm hex allen socket cap head screw 2x M5x16mm hex allen socket cap head screw 2x M5x16mm hex head screw 4x M5 nut 4x M5 washer different size # How I did the assembly (also look at the photos) - I recommend taking as many photos as possible during disassembly. - Home the hot bed and measure the distance to the Z-aluminium extrusion. - Move the extruder to a high position - Turn off the printer and unplug the power cord - Disconnect the Y motor cable - Move hot bed and measure the height hotbed to Y-aluminum extrusion. - Remove the hot bed, the Y motor, the end stop and the timing belt. - Pre-assemble the MGN15 rails with the holders - Mount the rails on the printer - Align a rail parallel to the profile (dail gauge or caliper) - Place the MGN15H blocks on the rails and assemble the hot bed holder - Align the other rail for a good movement of the carriage - Reassemble all other parts Mounting of the M5 nut was very hard to do, because there is no much room to do the work. Have fun ;-) <B>Remark</B> If you want to use the original Vyper end stop, it should be easy to remix the CR-10 endstop. My original Vyper end stop was broken, but I can't find a spare part.