Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus Glass Bed Clamp

thingiverse

Update 27Jan20 I recently discovered that the underside of my part cooling duct hit the clamp bolt head on one of the side clamps, right at a radius of 110mm. I've redesigned the clamp bolt head to be a lever, which has solved two major problems. Firstly, the width of the bolt head is significantly less on the build plate side of the clamp, making it much less likely to collide with the duct. Secondly, David_J's issue with the bolt being too tight to undo comfortably has been eliminated, thanks to the shape of the lever, which now provides a small amount of extra leverage when tightening. As an added feature, when tightened, the lever parks with its protrusion perpendicular to the build plate, as shown in the photo. This is now version 1.2, which I printed 3 bolts at a time using orange Sunlu PLA+ with 0.2mm layers and 0.5mm nozzle, 3 perimeters, and 10% infill. Update 13Nov19 Following David_J's comment about the clamp screw being difficult to unscrew, I've created a design for a small spanner/wrench that can help those who experience this issue. I printed this in silver Sunlu PLA+ with 0.25mm layers and 0.5mm nozzle, 5 perimeters, and 20% infill. Update 21Oct19 I've extended the fixing bolt holes to allow for additional, tighter adjustment towards the build plate, adding an extra 0.925mm of clearance. This is now version 1.1, and the Onshape link will take you directly to this updated version. Initial Version 31Jul19 After searching for a suitable clamp to hold my borosilicate glass build plate on my heated bed, I decided to design one from scratch using Onshape. If you want to make any adjustments to the original drawings, you can find them at this link: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/ec0d91ee24f4f9e61d9240a1/w/4435b4504876d0c24c086cef/e/5444b0fb228acd7783f3b459 The Anycubic Kossel Linear Plus has a 240mm diameter build plate held in place by a triangle formed from 2020 profile aluminum extrusion. I regularly use my heated build plate at 70°C, so I printed the clamp in PETG due to its higher temperature tolerance compared to PLA. I also added a silicone gasket made from self-amalgamating tape to help insulate the PETG and ensure it can withstand temperatures above 80°C. The gasket was glued in place using clear impact adhesive. If you use the same materials, be sure not to allow your gaskets to touch, as they will amalgamate and prevent removal of the clamp. I printed the clamp bolt/screw in Sunlu PLA+ because its threads are more defined than PETG's, and the screw doesn't come into contact with anything hot and therefore won't melt or distort. In addition to the printed parts, you'll need 2 M3 x 8mm socket button screws (these fit into the recess) and M3 T-nuts for each clamp.