AnyCubic Kossel linear Plus and Marlin 1.1.9 - Auto Calibration and Auto Bed Leveling

prusaprinters

<p>This is my version of Da Hai Zhu's</p> <p>AnyCubic Kossel and Marlin 1.1.9 - Auto Calibration and Auto Bed Leveling.</p> <p>I have adjusted it for the Linear Plus and tested works fine on my printer it so should for you work. But this an on going project and hope this will help out many out this with problems They are finding standard FW and Auto bed leveling.</p> <p>I've taken this forward and would enjoy feedback and also input on taking this further, to the advantage of everyone that owns this type of printer.</p> <p>Please watch and follow the install instructions on Da Hai's youtube. As the install and base setup insurrections the same</p> <p> <figure class="media"> <oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GF6ZGKOuzhY&amp;lc=z23vydtadmnwhlkrl04t1aokghb10i5oaagiygvcumqjbk0h00410"></oembed> </figure> </p> <p>Also a Big thanks for Da Hai. Giving me permission to post my work so far with my adjustments to help other's out there.</p> <p>Only fair to say this. As he did do most of the ground work to get it all up going and I fully acknowledge this fully.</p> <h3>How I Designed This</h3> <p><strong>AnyCubic Kossel linear Plus and Marlin 1.1.9 - Auto Calibration and Auto Bed Leveling</strong></p> <p>This is my version of Da Hai Zhu's</p> <p>AnyCubic Kossel and Marlin 1.1.9 - Auto Calibration and Auto Bed Leveling.</p> <p>I have adjusted it for the Linear Plus and tested it so should work. this an on going project and hope this will help out many out this with problems with the standard FW and Auto bed leveling.</p> <p>Please watch and follow the install instructions on youtube</p> <p> <figure class="media"> <oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GF6ZGKOuzhY&amp;lc=z23vydtadmnwhlkrl04t1aokghb10i5oaagiygvcumqjbk0h00410"></oembed> </figure> </p> <p>3/9/18</p> <p>Face plant my end Just clicked on this issue you may find with size of a print.</p> <p>If you find your print Larger or smaller on the X and Y axis, it's to do with "#define DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 271.5 " As i used Anycubic linear Plus standard setting</p> <p>load a 20x20 XYZ test cube and then. Then follow the link and down load the Anycubics manual for the early machines and follow the instructions on page 19 Step 2 and page 19 as the standard settings. It will take time but slowly adjust the number slowly up till your around the correct size 20mm +/- say point .02 or .07 on the X and Y axis of the cube with a set of vernier calipers. You will never get it 100% or it will be a fluke if you do. But you will find it will take time to find the setting that works best for your machine and many Cubes later.</p> <p>Do not adjust the other settings. Just the DELTA DIAGONAL ROD length.</p> <p><a href="https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B8VIB533cgdMSVMxNm43aG1OQ0U">https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B8VIB533cgdMSVMxNm43aG1OQ0U</a></p> <p>The above link is from Anycubic original sight</p> <p>Z axis is set by the auto leveling setup</p> <p>I do have one recommencement after you find the correct settings and adjustments. Do a re leveling of the bed as some of the Auto setting in the eeprom will need readjusting.</p> <p>Hope this helps</p> <p>4/8.</p> <p>I need to expand more about "DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD" settings. As I'm often getting asked about this and finding it hard to explain at the moment.</p> <p>The rod length of the rods effect the side ways x and y in its movement with the settings of "DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD".</p> <p>That's why your high is correct as the system works that out it's self and saved it to the eeprom on the Z axis when you do the height detection (Z axis being your height. that you found).</p> <p>My Machine is one of the first and when setting it up if you read the manual you had to Adjust the rod settings with in Marlin and keep adjusting the length setting I found by (+/- .05mm at a time) on the rod setting with DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD.</p> <p>It takes a lot of time to do this but it was found that often the rods from Anycubic for the early machines was often out in there lengths by small amounts and did effect the x and y size on the print.</p> <p>The confusing thing many forget that yes there is a Z stepper motor. But that is used for the X and Y. as well the Z with all 3 motors working as one in a way.</p> <p>It's hard even for me at time's to get my head around but. As often I have to think hard on my calculations on whats happening with the machine too.</p> <p>But found Coffea on thingiverse has explained this better than even I can on how to correct this issues. With her post.</p> <p>Kossel / Delta Dimensional Calibration with Instructions <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201324">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2201324</a></p> <p>Hope this clears it up a bit more for you.</p> <p>Note:- 12/9/18</p> <p>Thanks to Michael MikeFuLU. He has fixed a some issues I missed with the coding and also got me thinking on adding new items. In time after testing I will post the adjustments and corrections to my version.</p> <p>But the more input I get and with this and other like MikeFuLU's remix's. We all should benefit for the better and improve on the knowledge base we now have.</p> <p>But Again many thanks MikeFuLU for your help with this and here is a link to what his version as well.</p> <p><a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3094837">https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3094837</a></p> <p>15/10/18</p> <p>Hi all out there.</p> <p>I'm finding now many in the rush to get that first test print to see how my remix works are skipping a stage when setting up there printer and this is why the print head is just above the surface. Higher than it meant to be at the start of the print.</p> <p>Not saying this is the case for all of you. But finding it's now becoming a common factor.</p> <p>But did you follow the step that adjusts for the bed leveling sensor auto detect height.</p> <p>Watch this Youtube by Da Hai Zhu's and follow the instructions he gives on how to then set it up. This take's that issue into account.</p> <p>I Based my reworked and remix around his work, to get it to work for for the Anycubic linear plus standard. With the A9844 that they used on the Anycubic Kossel's</p> <p> <figure class="media"> <oembed url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GF6ZGKOuzhY&amp;lc=z23vydtadmnwhlkrl04t1aokghb10i5oaagiygvcumqjbk0h00410"></oembed> </figure> </p> <p>I will say it is easy to miss this step as Da Hai is very fast going over the steps and often you find your barely keeping up with him as your working at the same time on printer settings. pause button is very handy with that on Youtube.</p> <p>I'm finding more miss or skip this step and it give the problems you have been finding.</p> <p>Let me know how you get on.</p> <p>As this just add's to the knowledge base for everyone's enjoyment of getting The Anycubic Linear plus to work well.</p> <p>Note:- 16/10/18</p> <p>How and what the bed leveling sensor auto detect height does adjust for.</p> <p>OK what happens with it is this. And is how I understand it.</p> <p>First. All the first section up to when you manually work out the adjustment for the Z-offset's this works out the total height for Z between the end stop's and the build plate. This just set in stone with your machine. Plus then the machine dose not know the the true distance of the Bed leveling sensor between the sensors trigger point and that of the print Nozzle.</p> <p>The second when you adjustment then fine tunes the bed leveling sensor level from it's trigger point and that of the tip of the nozzle to the bed. No matter who or how the printer is put together, each machine is different on that measurement. Between the tip and the trigger point.</p> <p>Many think it from the sensors trigger point and that of the base plate distance that it's connected to. That is wrong.</p> <p>Also there are 2 different versions of the Sensors Anycubic came out with but also this takes into account any after market or custom made sensor in the final stored calculations.</p> <p>So the step for the bed leveling sensor height after the Z-offset distance will then always adjust for the correct level where it is to the tip of the Nozzle to that of the print bed.</p> <p>Believe I had to work hard thinking this one out and a few strong coffee's LOL</p> <p>10/11/18 Some reworking about to happen.</p> <p>Hi all after a few more posts in the comments and so one and many thanks to rjeevan.</p> <p>I'm about to do some updates to my version. I will also inform Da Hai Zhu where I'm at with it all to as it was his work that started me out with my version.</p> <p>But here is rjeevan posted link he's put into my comments so far</p> <p><a href="https://gist.github.com/rajeevan/5b8ea256bffaedce373e062b11c532bd">https://gist.github.com/rajeevan/5b8ea256bffaedce373e062b11c532bd</a></p> <p>And again many thank rjeevan.</p> <p>Done be afraid to comment and ask questions. I don't know everything but others may know about what your asking and more than welcome to post there findings help here as well.</p> <p>21/1/19</p> <p>Well this makes things interesting. As I have been send a replacement board for fixing a machine I've been working on and found that yes it is a Trigorilla. But a closer look and there are a few differences between the board that came out of the machine and the one that was sent to replace it. So had a look at 4 other different TriGorilla boards 3 I have in other machines very closely that all have the Trigorilla machines. Some have different components on the boards with some very slight changes to compensate for them. But also see there are at least 2 different Mega 2560 chipsets used on the trigorilla boards.</p> <p>Now I'm not saying it's what many are finding issues with bot it is a line I'm looking into just in case. But like anything will take time to discount is it is the issues.</p> <p>Good case in point I found with 2 board is the logo triangle on the top left corner. One is marked Trigorilla the other is marked Trigorilla 1.1 .</p> <p>7/11/19</p> <p>Ok I have now added on to here the Hex file to clear the EEPROM as many of you have been asking for it.</p> <p>It is a use at your own risk file.</p> <p>But I have found this sorts out a number of issues when you load new Firmware or having issues.</p> <p>I find if you use this file first to completely clear the TriGorilla boards Firmware first then as well clears any past settings that conflicting with your new settings like in bed leveling.</p> <p>I often use the latest Cura for loading Hex firmware onto a printer and works well.</p> <p>Then after it, once you have confirmed it's done. You will see just bars on the display only.</p> <p>After that load what ever Firmware you like be it 1.1.9 or 2.0. This will give you a fully clean install, with no hang overs from past FW.</p> Category: 3D Printers