Anycubic Kossel Delta Plus Bed Level Adjusters

thingiverse

After months of tinkering with various adjustments, I managed to get my bed perfectly level. However, I soon discovered that designing these bed level adjusters was a much simpler solution. They work seamlessly with full glass beds and can be adjusted even while the printer is running, allowing for precise fine-tuning during the first layer process. My 240mm bed has a diameter that allows for some movement in the wheels to accommodate different bed sizes and expansion when heated. Unfortunately, I lost about 18mm of build height in the process, but it was well worth it to make full use of my entire bed. These level adjusters are not intended to replace calibration; instead, they're meant to be used after calibrating your bed as closely as possible. Any remaining areas that need adjustment can then be dialed in with these. To get the most out of them, tighten down to around 3mm from the top of the level blocks so everything is secure and still. These adjusters are designed to provide a small amount of adjustment - up to 2mm - but if you need more than that, it's time to re-examine your calibration and frame geometry. Here's what you'll need: * 3 x 12mm long by 8mm diameter springs * 3x 15mm long M3 Countersunk Screws (Normal screws will work if you're not using a full-size piece of glass) * 3x M3 nuts * 3x M3 Nyloc Nuts * 3x M3 Washers * Super Glue (To glue M3 nuts into adjusters) * Old screws (M4) from bed holders * M4 square (Already in place) or T Nuts Now, let's get started with the assembly: 1. Countersink your heat-bed (If using Full Glass) 2. Insert countersunk screws and tighten with Nyloc Nut. 3. Superglue M3 nut to adjuster wheel 4. Install level blocks so the adjuster wheel position is dead center between towers. 5. Sit bed on adjusters and turn adjuster wheels to secure bed. 6. Tighten bed until it is 3mm above the highest part of the level block. 7. Calibrate printer 8. Run test print and adjust the level as needed