Anycubic i3 Mega twin MOSFET holder

thingiverse

Hello,\r\n\r\n<h2>Before I proceed. This modification, if not done properly, can seriously damage your printer, harm you, or cause a fire and similar risks.</h2> <h1>Any attempts are at your own risk.</h1>\r\n\r\n<p>\r\nI wanted to add MOSFETs to my printer. Reducing the current flowing through the board seemed like a good upgrade.\r\nThis Anycubic i3 Mega double MKS MOSFET inspired me. \r\n</p>\r\n<p>\r\nI decided to model it myself to ensure it fits into the printer and the MOSFETs fit properly (also practice with Fusion360). The MOSFETs and SD card holder dimensions are included, in case someone needs them.\r\n</p>\r\nWhat you will need:\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>MOSFET for heat bed/extruder (I used a combo from Ali).</li>\r\n<li>8* M3x8 screws</li>\r\n<li>About 30cm 16AWG cable - For power supply - I bought cables with silicone insulation up to 200 °C in a model shop.</li>\r\n<li>About 50cm 20AWG cable - For signals - Also silicone ones from the model shop.</li>\r\n<li>Corresponding cable terminals (or tinning)</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n\r\nThe wiring diagram is quite simple. In essence, I did this...\r\n<ul>\r\n<li>I linked power to MOSFETs by polarity and connected to the power supply with a 16AWG cable.</li>\r\n<li>First MOSFET board:</li>\r\n<li>I disconnected the wires leading into the hotbed from the main board and plugged into the "HOTBED" terminal on the MOSFET board.</li>\r\n<li>I used 20AWG cables to connect the main board and the MOSFET board ("BED" terminal). Be careful of polarity !!</li>\r\n<li>Second MOSFET board:</li>\r\n<li>I disconnected the wires leading into the hotend from the "printer-side" terminal and plugged into the "BED" terminal on the MOSFET board. Be careful of polarity !!</li>\r\n<li>I used a 20AWG cable to connect the MOSFET "HOTBED" terminal and the "printer-side" terminal.</li>\r\n</ul>\r\n\r\nI conducted some tests, and so far it looks good.