Anycubic I3 mega M, mega X improved hotend cover and cooler with room for bltouch

thingiverse

This is still not cleaned up and finished version, still work in progress. This is a remix of MarcZ86 hotend cover and npaisnel's & Prot0typ1cal nozzle adapted for anycubic printers. Print in PETG or ABS. Bottom nozzle part is suitable - and recommended to be printed using SLA printer due to it's improved precision, if you will print it via FDM printers, use thin layers and A LOT of cooling. Features: Blower fan is uniquely combined in the hotend cover itself - sideways and angled down via internal duct. This allows for super compact hotend cover and cooling nozzle design without any protruding rear fans or other odd solutions. This is the only way to combine the desired features and so far looks like nobody yet attempted such approach. -  While plenty of quality 360 circular coling solutions are already published for anycubic printers, none of them have room for bltouch probe or require switching to a shorter E3D V6 hotend which is a bigger change. I decided to use a more standard fan than anycubic blower (which died to me in first month and should be replaced anyways) and keep stock hotend. Hopefully this is a more simple drop-in solution for more users. Clearance is a bit hit & miss, it was tested on anycubic i3 mega M and mega X. it will probably also fit mega pro (i did not test), but definetly not the vyper. What you need: You will need a standard 4020 12 volt "turbo" blower fan for cooling ( https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32833769649.html ) - it will not fit original blower fan. For hotend cooling you will need a 40x40x10 fan, original fan will fit, but i recommend Noctua NF-A4x10 FLX ( https://noctua.at/en/nf-a4x10-flx ) for high performance and low noise. To assemble: - Add 4 suitable M3 brass inserts, if you have longer inserts you will need to shorten them, they should be up to 3 mm long or else it will interfere at some sides. - Combine air nozzle and hotend cover together and screw it in together with 3 retaining screw, the smaller screw on fan duct side is not needed, the 2 screws under hotend cooling fan will suffice - use short self tapping bolts for plastic. - Blower fan is inserted from left side and connected to its header, you will need 3 longer but thin plastic screws to screw it in. - Hotend cooling fan is mounted with its own special screws, the large standard "PC" fan screws are recommended (see pictures) It is highly recommended to replace the 2 hex bolts holding the hotend curcuit board with thin low profile head PC chassis M3 bolts, this will further improve clearance:  - YOU ABSOLUTELY WILL NEED TO CUT / GRIND OFF PART OF ENDSTOP SWITCH HOLDER, THE PRINTER WILL NOT HOME OTHERWISE BECAUSE DUCT WOULD HIT IT: Unmount X axis endstop bracket: -  -  - Grind off the edges until you almost reach the bolt holes: -  - Finish off with assembly. -  PWM FAN WIRING control solution (OPTIONAL): Because fan is controlled via PWM, depending on your fan it might produce strange oscillating interference noise at certain speeds ( or if the fan might also be absolutely too loud for you) in that case an additional very simple simple circuit can be added, you will need: - 1N 4007 diode - 22 μF 20v capacitor. - Resistor of X ohms ( highier wattage ) - Schematics:  Goggly eyes are optional, but they improve performance and friendliness of the finished project. Modelled using tinkercad & blender.