Anycubic Chiron Direct Drive Conversion with Factory Extruder & Hotend

thingiverse

This is a Direct Drive conversion using the factory Extruder, Hot End, Motor, Leveling probe, and breakout board that came with your Chiron. I designed this so you can continue to use the entire carriage as intended from the factory, along with the filament sensor and spool mount. The Part cooling fan attaches magnetically to the same mount as the leveling probe. This conversion requires minimal modification to the actual printer. You will need to extend the Extruder motor wiring through the cable chain and drill out the top left hole on the x carriage that holds the factory fan shroud. This allows an M3 x 8mm screw to be inserted from the back. The following physical modifications are required: * Extending the Extruder motor wiring through the cable chain * Drilling out the top left hole on the x carriage to allow an M3 x 8mm screw to be inserted from the back * Extending the Leveling probe cable **Note:** The following is a summary of the steps required to perform this conversion. I do not accept responsibility for damage you may cause to your printer, so please proceed at your own risk. Tools: * Hex keys that came with your Chiron * Wire cutters * Soldering Iron Supplies: * 1 Meter 22-26awg wires to extend the Extruder motor cables * M3 x 8mm Screws - 3 * M3 x 12mm Screws - 2 * M3 Nuts - 3 * Bowden tube fittings with 5mm Thread * Soldering and Heat Shrink supplies * 8mm x 3mm Magnet Tear-down: * Remove stock extruder and save all hardware * Remove stock hotend fan shroud and save all hardware * Remove stock hotend and mount and save all hardware * Remove Cable chain from both ends, rotate 180 Degrees and then reattach X carriage end only Assembly: * Remove insert from Extruder tension arm and shorten by approx 5mm or the length of the threads on your PTFE tubing fitting. Re-install the insert and then carefully screw PTFE tubing fitting into the end of the tension arm. * Remove the PTFE fitting and ring from the extruder, you will need to cut the PTFE tubing so that you can install the filament guide on the top of the hotend. The guide needs to sit flat on the top of the hotend and have no gap. * Install hotend, PFTE Tube, and guide into the extruder. It will fit tight. Hotend cables should face to the right. * Insert M3 nut into the inset on the top left front of the printed carriage. * Install motor and attach to breakout board * Connect X limit switch to breakout board Cable Chain: * Remove the right side cable chain mount link, then cut out the "tabs" that prevent it from rotating. Reinstall cable chain mount link and check for movement. * Attach Cable Chain Mount to the end of the X rail with factory M3 x 10mm screws. * Feed motor extension cables through Cable chain. Filament Guide: * Insert 2 M3 nuts, using M3 x 8MM screws attach the filament guide to the front two holes previously used to mount the extruder in the factory location. * Screw PFTE fitting into the filament guide. * Cut to length and insert PTFE tubing into guide and then into extruder tension arm fitting. Part Cooling: Using two of the original mounting screws for the stock blower attach to the Part Cooling Duct. Glue in an 8mm x 3mm thick magnet. Attach to level probe mount and plug in. That's it, you should be done! Ensure that you perform all leveling after assembly as per factory instructions. **If you find this design useful and improved your Chiron, please consider leaving a tip.** Revision History: April 28/2019 * Added Part cooling duct STL and updated instructions with addition of magnet required. April 25/2019 * Initial Release