Antique Pedestal Table

prusaprinters

This is a 24 inch by 15 inch antique pedestal table I made for my mom based on a table in an old photo she had.  People who've seen it are amazed when they find out it was made by a 3D printer.  You'll be pleased to hear that no sheets of plywood, no pile of wooden dowels, no aluminum extrusions and absolutely no carpentry knowledge what-so-ever are required to finish this full sized, fully functional, beautiful antique pedestal table replica because... ITS ALL 3D PRINTED!  I love this build because its a nice appealing classic design that adapted very well to being 3D printed and everything just falls into place wonderfully - functionality - looks - print ease - assembly ease - no non-printed parts required - its all here, and then some, because of course there's this 3D print's impressive size.  Yes mom, I can pull an antique pedestal table out of my Prusa MK printer lol.I have printed this table scaled down as low as 30 percent so if you want to check it out before printing a full sized table you can make a doll sized version first.  At 30 percent size it stands about 7 inches tall by about 5 inches in diameter and of course you can't use the M8 nuts and bolts at this scale so you have to glue the table-top pieces together.  A. Parts List and Print Info:    1. Table-Top Piece - Print 8 of these for a complete table top.  I recommend 4 perimeters (outer walls) and 30 percent infill.  The Table-Top Pieces can be printed right-side-up or upside-down, whichever you prefer.  Either way, use supports. (about 6 hrs and 73g filament each x 8)  If you prefer, you can use something else for a top instead of printing this one.     2. M8x20 Bolt and M8 Nut - Print 16 each.  I recommend minimum 2 perimeters and 30 percent infill.    3. Table-Top Center Hub - Print 1.  I recommend 4 perimeters and 80 percent infill.  (about 3 hrs and 36g filament)    4. Leg Right Half and Leg Left Half - Print 4 each (4 pairs).  I recommend 4 perimeters and 30 percent infill.  Use Supports (they don't have to be removed)  (about 12 hrs and 133g filament per pair)    5. Leg Alignment Pin - Print 8, 2 for each leg.  2/20, (about 35 minutes and 3.5g filament for all 8)     6. Main Body Top - Print 1.  Use 4 perimeters and 30 percent infill.  (about 17 hrs and 204g filament)    7. Main Body Middle - Print 1.  Use 4 perimeters and 30 percent infill. (about 18.6hrs and 210g filament)    8. Main Body Lower - Print 1.  Use 4 perimeters and 30 percent infill.  (about 19 hrs and 257g filament)    9. Bottom Bevel - Print 1.  Use 2 perimeters and 15 percent infill.   (about 2 hrs and 25g filament)   10. Bottom Button - Print 1.  Use 2 perimeters and 15 percent infill.  Use a Brim to hold it in place while printing.  (about 2 hrs and 19g filament)   11. OPTIONAL: Leg Color Insert - Print 2 per leg.  Print these in a contrasting color for stunning visual effect.  Flip half of them 180 in your slicer app as necessary so both the right and left sides will have the same build-side facing out.  1mm and 2mm thick options.  (about 1.5 hrs and 14g filament per pair for the 2mm thick ones)         B. Assembly:1. Glue the 3 parts of the main body together.2. Take a Right and Left Leg Half and place a couple of the Leg Dowel Pins into the 2 holes in one Leg Half and, using them as a guide, glue the 2 halves together. Slide the 4 complete legs into the slots in the lower main body until the bottom of the legs is flush with the bottom of the lower main body. Once you test fit them and have ensured that they fit properly, take them back off the body and then reassemble them with glue for the stongest joint.3. Place the Bottom Bevel Piece with the wide octagon side facing against the bottom of the Lower Main Body and then screw the Bottom Button Bolt through it and up into the Lower Main Body until it is tight.  The thread size is 1 inche US standard thread.4. Create a table top in the range of 15 inches to 18 inches in diameter from your desired material or 3D print and assemble the 8 Table-Top Wedge Pieces using the M8 Nuts and Bolts in the 2 slots on each side of the pieces. Place the assembled Table-Top onto the pedestal and screw the center hub down until its flush with the top of the table-top.  If it does not fit well then try loosening the screws holding the individual table-top pieces and screwing the center hub in and then re-tightening the M8 Nuts and Bolts.You can glue the table-top pieces together for added strength but I recommend that you do not glue them together until after you have fully assembled the top using the M8 nuts and bolts and know the center hub will fit in the center recess. Then loosen, glue and reassemble only one piece at a time, rechecking that it is even and that the center hub fits each time.If using another material to make a table top instead of 3D printing it you can still use this center hub bolt to hold it onto the pedestal.  Just ensure you have a recess 3 inches in diameter by 1/4 inch deep and a 1 inch through-hole in the center.  The threads in the top and bottom of the pedestal main body are both 1 inch USA standard thread.For the table I made for my mom I reused an old marble table top and I just glued it to the top of the pedestal body.  So far it has held with no issues.5. If desired, print the optional Leg Color Inserts and insert them into the sides of the legs to add a contrasting visual effect.  I didn't use the leg inserts on the table I made for my mom.  I just started printing a table in purple for my GF and its going to have black leg inserts.