Another Kuchi Kopi Night Light

prusaprinters

Print SettingsPrinter:FLSUN i3 2017Rafts: NoSupports:NoResolution: .2Infill:0-15%Filament:3D Solutech FlexibleYellow Notes: The model could be printed with 0% infill, but I didn't end up trying that with the flexible filament as I was having trouble with my settings. I think it is possible with some patience and a dialed in profile. I used a simple 10% line infill which is slightly noticeable, but doesn't look bad. It is squeezable, but not super squishy.How I Designed This ===================I pulled the source model in Blender and tried to make some adjustments, but I think I eventually imported it into Fusion360 and traced out a simplistic offset revolved cutout to make the model hollow. This would allow a light to be placed inside, as well as using far less filament.When powered, the LED seemed too bright. Even when I dropped the voltage as low as I could manage, it still seemed too bright for a nightlight in a dark bedroom. That meant I needed to use PWM. Luckily I had a cheap Arduino Nano clone that had been accidentally crushed in another project yet functioned. While I was writing code, I decided to use a Photoresistor to switch the light on when it got dark. I was able to play around with some values that allowed the light to become brighter when it is semi-dark, but dim much lower when all lights are out to act like a soft night light.The base I made out of wood PLA and sanded/stained it dark ebony and finished with a thin wax layer. The Arduino Nano fits snugly in with room for wires, and allows a Mini-USB to be plugged in for power.Arduino CodeHere's my sloppy Arduino code.int sensor=A0; // Analog 0 plugged into LDRint output=10; // LED Pin - Apparently for PWM, most Arduino boards (those with the ATmega168 or ATmega328), this function works on pins 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11.//Values measured from LDR under various lighting conditions in the room.int light=300;int dusk=180;int dark=50;int deadzone=50; // Tweak this value if you experience flickering.//PWM values 0-255int ON = 100; //255 is just too darn brightint DIM = 25; //Aww yisss...int OFF = 0;void setup(){pinMode(output, OUTPUT);// initialize serial:Serial.begin(9600);Serial.println("Light sensor reads... "); //This is for debugging/calibration}void loop(){int brightness=analogRead(sensor);//debugging messageSerial.println(brightness);//////Simple Light on/off logic BOOOORING//if (brightness <=120) {// analogWrite(LED_BUILTIN, 255);//}////gap between these two values accounts for a "deadzone" to avoid flickering due to lamp turning on.//if (brightness >=160) {// analogWrite(LED_BUILTIN, 0);//}if (brightness >=light) {analogWrite(output, OFF); //bright outside - turn light off}else if (brightness <= dusk-deadzone && brightness >= dark+deadzone ) {analogWrite(output, ON); //kinda dark - turn light on full}else if (brightness <= dark ) {analogWrite(output, DIM); // very dark - enable nightlight dimmage}//analogWrite(LED_BUILTIN, 255);delay(500); //delay sometimes helps to avoid flicker. No need for hyperactive arduino.}   Category: Decor